Fossil Springs Wilderness is one of the most spectacular areas in Arizona – so much so that permits are required from April 1-October 1. The Wilderness has 11,550 acres with 30 species of trees and shrubs and over 100 species of birds. Fossil Creek itself is one of two Wild & Scenic Rivers in Arizona as well, designated by Congress in 2009 after the Fossil Springs Dam was decommissioned by Arizona in 2005. The next few entries will follow the loop from the eastern Fossil Springs Trailhead through Fossil Canyon along the Flume Trail to the Fossil Creek Bridge, then returning to the start along Fossil Creek Road (FR 708) with a spur on the Waterfall Trail. I did the full loop in a day but one could easy split it into two and I’d recommend that for less experienced hikers or those who are just out for a weekend to give yourself a bit more time to soak it in. Today’s entry will cover the eastern segment of the loop, running along the Fossil Springs Trail from the Bob Bear (Fossil Springs) Trailhead 3 miles west of Strawberry to Fossil Creek Dam.
Two important things to recognize about the full loop: permits are required to park at the trailheads from April 1-October 30, and FR 708 (Fossil Creek Road) is closed from just below the Waterfall Trailhead to Just west of the Bob Bear Trailhead, so plan your starting point and route to get there in advance with that in mind and be aware it’s not easy to get from one side to the other by car. You can, however, walk or bike the closed stretch of road. It is a long, sustained climb up the canyon wall, as we’ll see tomorrow – so consider that if doing the full loop as well. Some might prefer to go down the road first and up the shorter but steeper trail at the end. Or if you started at the bottom (Fossil Creek Bridge) you could go up the road or trail first, depending on your preferred method of ascent. Just remember, again – once you go to one of the two trailheads, that’s where you’ll be starting.
General things to know about this hike before we launch in:
Waterfall Trail | Fossil Creek Wilderness Loop | |
Trail Surface | Dirt singletrack | Dirt (75% singletrack, 25% road) |
Length (Mi) | 1.3 | About 20 |
Elevation Change (Ft) | 249 | 1625 |
Season | All year | All year |
Potential Water Sources | Fossil Creek | Fossil Springs Fossil Creek |
Trailheads | Fossil Springs-Irving Trailhead Waterfall Trailhead | Bob Bear Trailhead Fossil Springs-Irving Trailhead |
From the Fossil Creek Bridge trailhead, FR 708 begins to climb the wall of Fossil Canyon. A short distance up, the road is gated. Just on the other side is the trailhead for the Waterfall Trail, one of the most popular spots in the wilderness.

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest
Reaching the waterfall, a large mineral deposit appears to the side. There’s another family here having fun as I pause to relax a bit. I also passed several groups on my way in going both in and out. I can imagine this can get substantially busier during peak season, so be sure to be prepared and have your permits done before coming. Heading back to FR 708, the route turns uphill and begins to follow the long climb on the closed road to the rim of Fossil Canyon. Tomorrow we’ll take a look at some of those shots, including a spectacular sunset that put the final touches on an amazing day before returning to Strawberry, Arizona for dinner.

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

Fossil Springs Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

To Thruhike or Section Hike, That is the Question
When many individuals are first looking at getting into thruhiking, they face one crucial decision after trail selection – to section hike, or thruhike. Each has different advantages and challenges, and may be better suited for one trail than another. Today, we’re going to discuss these. First, we need to define each. For our purposes, … Continue reading To Thruhike or Section Hike, That is the Question

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Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Inspiration Point to Roosevelt Cemetery (Passages 20 & 19, Four Peaks to Superstition Mountains)
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Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Arizona Trail Backpacking Logistics – AZT Gateway Communities: Tonto Basin
Backpacking the Arizona Trail’s Saddle Mountain Passage from near Saddle Mountain to Sycamore Creek at the start of the Pine Mountain passage. More magnificent Arizona mountain views of the central Mazatzal peaks and ridgelines, and a gorgeous Arizona sunset.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Four Peaks South (Passage 20)
Backpacking the Arizona Trail’s Saddle Mountain Passage from near Saddle Mountain to Sycamore Creek at the start of the Pine Mountain passage. More magnificent Arizona mountain views of the central Mazatzal peaks and ridgelines, and a gorgeous Arizona sunset.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

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Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Pine Mountain (Passage 21), FR 422 to Pigeon Spring Trailhead
Backpacking the Arizona Trail’s Saddle Mountain Passage from near Saddle Mountain to Sycamore Creek at the start of the Pine Mountain passage. More magnificent Arizona mountain views of the central Mazatzal peaks and ridgelines, and a gorgeous Arizona sunset.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Pine Mountain (Passage 21), Boulder Creek Trail
Backpacking the Arizona Trail’s Saddle Mountain Passage from near Saddle Mountain to Sycamore Creek at the start of the Pine Mountain passage. More magnificent Arizona mountain views of the central Mazatzal peaks and ridgelines, and a gorgeous Arizona sunset.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Saddle Mountain, Part II (Day 54, Passages 22 & 21)
Backpacking the Arizona Trail’s Saddle Mountain Passage from near Saddle Mountain to Sycamore Creek at the start of the Pine Mountain passage. More magnificent Arizona mountain views of the central Mazatzal peaks and ridgelines, and a gorgeous Arizona sunset.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Saddle Mountain, Part I (Day 53, Passage 23)
Backpacking the Arizona Trail’s Saddle Mountain Passage, views of the central Mazatzal peaks and ridgelines, wildlife encounters with fox and snakes, and another Arizona sunset as the trail reaches its halfway point.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Mazatzal Divide, Part V (Day 53, Passage 23)
Backpacking around Mount Peeley on the Arizona Trail, views of the central Mazatzal peaks and ridgelines.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Mazatzal Divide, Part IV (Day 52, Passage 23)
Day 53, the Mazatzal Divide section between Barnhardt Canyon and the highest point on this hiking passage, just south of Bear Spring.
The trail wraps precipitously around the west flank of Mazatzal Peak, with 1700 foot cliffs rising above the trail.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail, Day 52 – Passage 23 (Mazatzal Divide, Part III)
Day 53, the Mazatzal Divide section between Barnhardt Canyon and the highest point on this hiking passage, just south of Bear Spring.
The trail wraps precipitously around the west flank of Mazatzal Peak, with 1700 foot cliffs rising above the trail.

Hiking Amazing Arizona: Barnhardt Trail, Mazatzal Wilderness (Tonto NF)
Hiking through amazing Arizona on the Barnhardt Trail in the Mazatzal Wilderness, Tonto National Forest. Magnificent geological exposure & overall views in Barnhardt Canyon.

Backpacking the Arizona Trail, Day 51: Mazatzal Divide (Passage 23), Part II
Disruptive event today, an F-16 that flew over while I was packing. It flew extremely low and around a mountain – possibly North Peak – and made me think very seriously about why that would be allowed over a designated wilderness area. Still, I manage to knock out a few miles to Chilson Spring before dark, with spectacular views of Deadman’s Canyon, the Verde Valley, and the western Mazatzal foothills along the way. The mountains are jagged and rugged and the trail traces steep slopes nearly the whole way across precipitous terrain.