Arizona Trail Passage 19: Superstition Wilderness
AZT Day 59
Trans-Arizona/Utah Day 66

Welcome back to Aspen’s Tracks, thruhiking the Arizona Trail southbound from Utah to Mexico. Today’s route covers backpacking the stretch of Passage 19, the Superstition Wilderness, between the upper Cottonwood Creek drainage and Pine Creek in the interior of the wilderness. You can find today’s hiking logistics below the photo documentation and trail journal of the route.

If you missed my last entry covering the leg through the first segment of the passage, that can be found here. The next entry will cover the remainder of the Superstion Wilderness crossing, from Pine Creek to Rogers Trough Trailhead. If you enjoy these accounts, please do subscribe to follow along to make sure that you don’t miss out on here or any future accounts to come!

In the land of Arizona
Through desert heat or snow
Winds a trail for folks to follow
From Utah to Old Mexico

It’s the Arizona Trail
A pathway through the great Southwest
A diverse track through wood and stone
Your spirit it will test

Oh, sure you’ll sweat and blister
You’ll feel the miles every day
You’ll shiver at the loneliness
Your feet and seat will pay

But you’ll see moonlight on the borderlands
You’ll see stars on the Mogollon
You’ll feel the warmth of winter sun
And be thrilled straight through to bone

The aches and pains will fade away
You’ll feel renewed and whole
You’ll never be the same again
With Arizona in your soul

Along the Arizona Trail
A reverence and peace you’ll know
Through deserts, canyons, and mountains
From Utah to Old Mexico
-“The Arizona Trail,” Dale R. Shewalter

Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest

Arizona Trail: Cottonwood Creek Basin to Superstition Wilderness Boundary, Tonto National Forest

Today on the Arizona Trail started with a climb from the headwaters of Cottonwood Creek to the boundary of the Superstition Wilderness in the Tonto National Forest. As I climbed through the area burned in the Woodbury Fire that summer, the effects of the fire remained very evident all around.

Cottonwood Basin
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest

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Upper Cottonwood Creek Basin
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Upper Cottonwood Creek Basin
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Upper Cottonwood Creek Basin
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Burned areas from the Washburn Fire along the AZT in Upper Cottonwood Creek basin
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Sweeping panoramas in the northeast Superstition Mountains
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest

Arizona Trail: Superstitions Wilderness Boundary to Pine Creek
Superstitions Wilderness, Tonto National Forest

The trail starts out on a forest road but then branches off and climbs into the Wilderness. The spectacular red sediment contrasts tremendously with the blue sky, streaks of clouds, vegetation, and shadows of the rugged mountains. As the trail reaches the summit of Two Bar Ridge, spectacular views emerge. The Salt River Canyon and Apache Lake between the Superstitions and southern Mazatzals come into view. Roosevelt Lake shines behind. The rugged Superstitions lie ahead, rock layers exposed and covered in all kinds of desert flora.

qPhoenix is the sixth largest city in the United States, and the Superstitions are one of the most popular hiking areas around Phoenix. However, the AZT cuts through their quieter eastern side, ensuring that the wilderness character of the trail as a whole is preserved. Wildfire impacts are visible at varying intervals. Aside from the spectacularly rugged mountains, the trail crosses through occasional grasslands dry from the summer heat, that somehow lucked out and escaped incineration by fire over the summer.

Northward view toward Salt River Canyons and southern Mazatzal Mountains/Four Peaks
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Northeast view toward the eastern end of Roosevelt Lake and upper Salt River Valley, with the Sierra Ancha beyond
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Burned vegetation from the Washburn Fire
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Burned vegetation from the Washburn Fire
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
North view toward southern Mazatzal Mountains
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Desert Marigolds
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Apache Lake and the southern Mazatzal Mountains, including the Four Peaks (right)
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Pinyon Pine
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
The AZT runs through grasslands in the northern Superstition Mountains
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest

Crossing Two Bar Ridge, the trail descends into another basin ringed by soaring cliffs. Desert flora abounds as it rises again to crest a ridgeline below Two Bar Mountain. Crossing the ridgeline and a subsequent exposed area, the trail passes Walnut Spring. It’s getting dark a little while later as I reach my finish point for the day, Pine Creek. Water can be a real challenge in this area, but Pine Creek provides a great source for the night.

Lichen on trees in the Superstition Mountains
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Four Peaks and southern Mazatzal Mountains from the northern Superstitions
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Apache Lake in the Salt River Canyon between the Superstition and Mazatzal Mountains
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Pinyon Pines, Prickly pears, and other desert flora along the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Lichen on trees in the Superstition Mountains
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Wildflower in the Superstitions (member of Aster family)
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Yucca
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Fire Impacts
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Fire Impacts
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Fresh growth in a burn area (note the darker soil)
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Welded tuff with concretions
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Superstition Mountains
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Superstition Mountains
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Superstition Mountains
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Desert Marigolds
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Superstition Mountains
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Four Peaks from Two Bar Ridge
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Four Peaks from Two Bar Ridge
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Two Bar Ridge panorama (north/northwest)
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Superstition Mountains
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Superstition Mountains west/northwest panorama from Two Bar Ridge
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
East view from Two Bar Ridge
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Northeast view from Two Bar Ridge toward Sierra Ancha mountains across Roosevelt Lake
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
North panorama from Two Bar Ridge. Four Peaks in the southern Mazatzal Mountains visible to the left, with the Sierra Ancha and Roosevelt Lake visible to the right
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
View toward the Four Peaks in the southern Mazatzal Mountains from the south end of Two Bar Ridge in the Superstitions. The Salt River, dammed as Apache Lake and Canyon Lake, flows between the Superstitions and the Mazatzals.
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Northward panorama toward the Four Peaks in the southern Mazatzal Mountains from the Arizona Trail on the south end of Two Bar Ridge in the Superstition Mountains
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Steep cliffs are a prominent feature of the volcanic legacy of the Superstition Mountains, viewed from the Arizona Trail on the south end of Two Bar Ridge
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest
Superstition Mountains viewed from Two Bar Ridge
Arizona Trail, Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
Superstition Wilderness
Tonto National Forest

Arizona Trail: Superstitions Geology

Many of those who hike through this spectacular area have no idea they are walking through a supervolcano. A fair number of individuals are aware that the largest that currently exists is the Yellowstone Caldera. 50 miles wide, it has an explosive history that has blown a hole in the Rocky Mountains and altered the climate within its path. The Superstitions were more like Yellowstone’s little brother. 25-15 million years ago, they erupted in three successive eruptive events. This produced the Superstition Cauldron, Goldfield Cauldron, and Tortilla Caldera. The former two are invisible today; the latter does show some surface features (hence the different terms used to refer to them). Collectively, they are known today officially as the Superstition-Goldfield Volcanic Zone or the Superstition Cauldron Complex.

While two of the three calderas no longer exhibit visible surface features, the mountains in the vicinity show plenty of evidence of the activity. Rhyolite rock and welded tuff, ash that was still so hot when it descended that it fused into a rock form, form dramatic cliffs that rise above the hillside and mountains, creating a ruggedly spectacular landscape. During its lifetime, 2500 cubic miles of ash and lava were released. Features like Weaver’s Needle and Picketpost Mountain, plus the eroded resurgent dome of the main range, remain today as reminders of these events.

Come back for my next post, which will tackle the remainder of the Superstition Wilderness, heading toward the town of Superior!

Alternatively, if you’re curious why I picked this particular undertaking, you can check out my explanation of that.

Arizona Trail: Passage 19 Logistics

Passage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
AZTA Passage InformationPassage 19 (Superstition Wilderness)
AZTA Passage Elevation ProfilePassage 19 Profile
AZTA Passage MapPassage 19 Map
Trail SurfaceForest Road (dirt)
Dirt singletrack
Length (Mi)29.4
SeasonSeptember-May
Potential Water SourcesTrail Tank (mi 344.8 NB, 443.1 SB)
Cottonwood Creek (Mi 342.9 NB, 445.0 SB)
Cottonwood Spring (mm 339.2 NB, 448.7 SB)
Walnut Spring (mi 329.1 NB, 458.8 SB)
Pine Creek (mi 327.8 NB, 460.2 SB)
Reavis Creek (mi 325.3 NB, 462.6 SB)
Reavis Ranch (mi 324.9 NB, 463.1 SB)
Reavis Creek (mm 324.1 NB, 463.8 SB)
Reavis Saddle Spring (mm 321.7 NB, 466.2 SB)
Rogers Spring (mm 318.2 NB, 469.7 SB)

Current AZTA Water Reports: AZTA Water Reports
TrailheadsNorth: Vineyard Trailhead
South: Rogers Trough Trailhead
Trailhead AccessNorth: Vehicular access; via paved road
South: Vehicular access via graded dirt road
WildernessYes, most
Possible resupply pointsRoosevelt Lake Marina (north end)
Farther, Globe and Tonto Basin
ATA-Rated DifficultyStrenuous
Potential campsites (mileages S to N)Beware flash floods in the Cottonwood Creek drainage

Cottonwood Creek Basin
Walnut Spring
Pine Creek
Reavis Ranch-Reavis Creek area
Ecosystems TraversedArizona Upland
Highlights Views of Four Peaks, Tonto Basin & Roosevelt Lake
Volcanic history of the Superstition Mountains
Desert flora & fauna diversity
Far fewer people than west side of Superstitions

Arizona Trail: Passage 19 Ecology

Arizona Upland
Common Trees/Shrubs* Fairy duster
* Blue and littleleaf palo verde
* Fremont wolfberry
* Graythorn
* Ocotillo
* Red barberry
* Scrub-live oak
* Snapdragon-penstemon
* Turpentine bush
* Velvet mesquite
* Whitethron acacia
Common herbaceous plants* California flannelbush [rare in Arizona, Superstition Mountains included]
* Bluedicks
* Brittlebush
* California poppies
* Creamcups
* Desert chicory
* Desert rockpea
* Desert windflower
* Fringed red maids
* Globemallows
* Lupines
* Sego-lily
Common succulents* Arizona pencil cholla
* Banana yucca
* Soaptree yucca
* Buckhorn cholla
* Cane cholla
* Chainfruit
* Hedgehog cactus
* Pencil cholla
* Pincushion cactus
* Prickly pears
* Saguaro
* Teddybear cholla
Source: Arizona Trail Association AZT Guide & NatureServe). Only California and Texas are more diverse ecologically than Arizona.