Arizona Trail, Day 24: Elden Mountain, Part 2 (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 31)

Welcome back to Aspen’s Tracks, thruhiking the Arizona Trail from Utah to Mexico. I want to note that this hike was completed before the coronavirus pandemic arrived, but it has left me with quite a bit of time in quarantine to write up my experiences on the trail.

The Arizona Trail wraps past golden oaks and aspens through Schultz Pass and innumerable drainages. Expansive views of the San Francisco Peaks from the south are incredible, including Agassiz and Fremont Peaks. On the east end of the Pass, the trail opens out to areas potentially impacted by the 2010 Schultz Fire, which burned the area north of the AZT and east of Schultz Peak (fourth highest point in Arizona) and 1977 Radio Fire, which torched the east and south faces of Elden Mountain.

On the east side of Schultz Pass, the trail skirts Little Elden Mountain and I notice while I’m hiking that the the trail passes a small foundation, unmarked like the earlier one in Schultz Pass. This one is more circular, and looks something like the foundation visible at Moqui Stage Station back on the Coconino Rim passage. Perhaps a remnant of another stage station, or John Elden’s (the mountain’s namesake) homestead?

Views of Elden Mountain open up as the trail turns south around Little Elden. Geologically speaking, Elden is a silicic volcanic feature, part of the San Francisco Volcanic Field, a lava dome formed from several vents. It’s one of the largest features in the area aside from the San Francisco Peaks stratovolcano, along with the Dry Lake Hills that I passed through on Passage 33, as well as the Hochderffer and White Horse Hills and O’Leary Peak. It’s likely they are all subsidiary features of the Peaks (itself a remnant of San Francisco Mountain).

There was some great foliage and views of the eastern San Francisco Volcanic Field on this stretch, so I’ll let those speak for themselves here and pick up with the remainder of the day tomorrow.

(Note: If you enjoy this blog, please help support it by clicking separately on each post that you read (as opposed to just the home screen. Follow along for account of national park, public land, hiking, and cycling travels across the country!)

Gambel oaks and ponderosa pines along the Arizona Trail, Passage 32 (Elden Mountain)
Gambel oaks and ponderosa pines along the Arizona Trail, Passage 32 (Elden Mountain)
Gambel oaks and ponderosa pines among rock outcrops along the Arizona Trail, Passage 32 (Elden Mountain)
Little Elden Mountain from the Arizona Trail (Passage 32, Elden Mountain)
Gambel oaks and ponderosa along the Arizona Trail (Passage 32, Elden Mountain)
Little Elden Mountain from the Arizona Trail (Passage 32, Elden Mountain)
Elden Mountain through the ponderosas and oaks along the Arizona Trail, Passage 32 (Elden Mountain)
Little Elden Mountain from the Arizona Trail (Passage 32, Elden Mountain)
Foothills of the San Francisco Peaks, and the southeastern San Francisco Volcanic Field. To the left are the Turkey Hills, Apache Butte, Cinder Mountain, Merrill Crater, O’Neill Crater, and Edge Butte. View from Passage 32 of the Arizona Trail (Elden Mountain).

Arizona Trail, Day 24: Elden Mountain (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 30)

Welcome back to Aspen’s Tracks, thruhiking the Arizona Trail from Utah to Mexico. I want to note that this hike was completed before the coronavirus pandemic arrived, but it has left me with quite a bit of time in quarantine to write up my experiences on the trail.

Oscar gives me a ride to Macy’s for breakfast and run into some section hikers. We reminisce about some days on the trail, they have 40 miles to go. Then it is off to Schultz Pass to get back on the trail. My shin is feeling much better after the zero yesterday. I Uber up to the trailhead and pack up my tent here, talking with more section hikers heading north to Kelly Tank, then hike south along the trail. As usual, the ponderosa forest smells amazing, and I have to stop and smell the vanilla-butterscotch aroma that the bark puts out.

The Arizona Trail wraps past golden oaks and aspens through Schultz Pass and innumerable drainages. Expansive views of the San Francisco Peaks from the south are incredible, including Agassiz and Fremont Peaks. On the east end of the Pass, the trail opens out to areas potentially impacted by the 2010 Schultz Fire, which burned the area north of the AZT and east of Schultz Peak (fourth highest point in Arizona) and 1977 Radio Fire, which torched the east and south faces of Elden Mountain.

(Note: If you enjoy this blog, please help support it by clicking separately on each post that you read (as opposed to just the home screen. Follow along for account of national park, public land, hiking, and cycling travels across the country!)

The Arizona Trail ascends through the ponderosas on the lower slopes of the San Francisco Peaks, eastbound in Schultz Pass. Passage 32 (Elden Mountain)
Golden ferns from a dry summer mix with ponderosa pines on the Arizona Trail, passage 32 (Elden Mountain)
The San Francisco Peaks from Schultz Pass. Burn piles left from the Museum Fire are in the foreground, while aspens color the lower slopes. Agassiz Peak is on the left, Fremont Peak on the far right. Arizona Trail, Passage 32 (Elden Mountain).
The Arizona Trail runs through ponderosa forest and rice grass meadows in Schultz Pass. Passage 32 (Elden Mountain).
Aspens and ponderosa among rice grass in Schultz Pass. Arizona Trail, Passage 32 (Elden Mountain)
Aspens along the Arizona Trail in Schultz Pass. AZT Passage 32, Elden Mountain.
Aspens along the Arizona Trail in Schultz Pass. AZT Passage 32, Elden Mountain.
Deer Hill or Schultz Peak rises above the ponderosas and aspens in Schultz Pass. Arizona Trail Passage 32, Elden Mountain.
Deer Hill or Schultz Peak from the Arizona Trail in Schultz Pass. Impacts of the 2010 Schultz Fire clearly visible. Passage 32, Elden Mountain.
Aspens add a splash of beautiful color to the burn scar of the 2010 Schultz or 1977 Radio Fires. Arizona Trail, Passage 32 (Elden Mountain)
Aspens add a splash of beautiful color to the burn scar of the 2010 Schultz or 1977 Radio Fires. Arizona Trail, Passage 32 (Elden Mountain)
Deer Hill or Schultz Peak from the Arizona Trail in Schultz Pass. Impacts of the 2010 Schultz Fire clearly visible. Passage 32, Elden Mountain.

Arizona Trail Day 21, Part 3: Heart of the San Francisco Peaks (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 27)

Below the Arizona Snowbowl (yes, there are ski resorts in Arizona, and this is not the only one that the trail passes), I take a moment to do the side Aspen Loop. This grove of aspens appears to be peaking, and the experience of walking through an atmosphere of pure gold is very hard to put into words. It’s a short loop that soon rejoins the Arizona Trail continuing south toward Flagstaff. 610 miles to Mexico. I’ll again allow their magnificence to speak for themselves. A fire seems to be burning to the west as the two trails merge again. I know that some prescribed burns had been planned in the area, but I’m not familiar with this one. Something to look into when I reach Flagstaff.

Aspens along the Arizona Trail on Passage 34, the San Francisco Peaks
Kachina Peaks Wilderness
Coconino National Forest

The trail continues along, passing another potential water source, Alfa Fia Tank. It’s borderline whether I’ll need it, but I ultimately pass based on the reports that I read on Guthook. I encounter Jim, a local mountain biker (this stretch of the trail in the Coconino National Forest is extremely popular with mountain bikers) near Aspen Corner. He’s heading back to his car and fills up my reservoir for me after a conversation around the trail and sports – including the baseball playoffs currently ongoing. It really is incredible to experience the culture that surrounds long-distance trails, the spontaneous support (often called “trail magic”) that locals provide, and just the opportunities to take a break and talk about the experience with someone for a while. Especially on a trail like the AZT, where you can literally go for days at a time without seeing ANYONE.

The trail continues south, reentering predominantly ponderosa forest. I’m not quite going to make it to Flagstaff today as I hoped, but I do encounter another thruhiker, Silver. (As fate would have it, I would encounter another acquaintance of his several months later as well). He’s heading north, hoping to reach the northern terminus and then head back to Flagstaff. (His plans changed. I’ll write about those in a postscript to this entire journey.) I eventually make camp near where the trail forks. My hope tomorrow is to do the resupply run into Flagstaff, take a zero there, then return and do the normal route around the town using a friend in Flagstaff as a home base, to cut back on the supplies I have to carry for a few days.

Aspens along the Arizona Trail on Passage 34, the San Francisco Peaks
Coconino National Forest
Aspens along the Arizona Trail on Passage 34, the San Francisco Peaks
Coconino National Forest
Aspens & mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail on Passage 34, the San Francisco Peaks
Coconino National Forest
610 miles to Mexico!
Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Coconino National Forest
Aspen Loop
Coconino National Forest
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Aspen Loop
Coconino National Forest
Aspen Loop
Coconino National Forest
Aspen Loop
Coconino National Forest
Aspen Loop
Coconino National Forest
Aspen Loop
Coconino National Forest
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Aspen Loop
Coconino National Forest
Aspen Loop
Coconino National Forest
Surrounded by gold on the Aspen Loop, Coconino National Forest
Surrounded by gold on the Aspen Loop, Coconino National Forest
Surrounded by gold on the Aspen Loop, Coconino National Forest
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Surrounded by gold on the Aspen Loop, Coconino National Forest
Surrounded by gold on the Aspen Loop, Coconino National Forest
Surrounded by gold on the Aspen Loop, Coconino National Forest
Surrounded by gold on the Aspen Loop, Coconino National Forest
Surrounded by gold on the Aspen Loop, Coconino National Forest
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Surrounded by gold on the Aspen Loop, Coconino National Forest
Fire burning near Sitgreaves Peak in the western San Francisco Volcanic Field, as viewed from the lower San Francisco Peaks
Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Coconino National Forest
The San Francisco Peaks from their lower slopes. Humphreys Peak at left; Agassiz Peak at right.
Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Coconino National Forest
Aspens among mixed conifers along the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Coconino National Forest
Aspens among mixed conifers along the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Coconino National Forest
Aspens among mixed conifers along the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Coconino National Forest

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Arizona Trail, Passage 25: Whiterock Mesa, Part 2

I got started around 10, heading down Passage 25 toward the East Verde River.
I hike through a gate and enter the Mazatzal Wilderness. Following cairns, the surface alternates between the basalt and more dirt – like walking through a wash. As the trail skirts the rim briefly, a magnificent view of the Mazatzal Mountains and Red Hills opens up to the hiker, then the trail experiences yet another spectacular sunset as it and the backpacker fall off the Mesa to Polk Spring near the East Verde River.

Fossil Springs Wilderness – FR 708

Take a virtual hike through the Fossil Creek Wilderness! Fossil Creek Wilderness is one of the most spectacular areas in Arizona – so much so that permits are required from April 1-October 1. From the Fossil Creek Bridge trailhead, FR 708 begins to climb the wall of Fossil Canyon. A short distance up, the road is gated. Just on the other side is the trailhead for the Waterfall Trail, one of the most popular spots in the wilderness.

Fossil Creek Wilderness – Waterfall Trail

Take a virtual hike through the Fossil Creek Wilderness! Fossil Creek Wilderness is one of the most spectacular areas in Arizona – so much so that permits are required from April 1-October 1. From the Fossil Creek Bridge trailhead, FR 708 begins to climb the wall of Fossil Canyon. A short distance up, the road is gated. Just on the other side is the trailhead for the Waterfall Trail, one of the most popular spots in the wilderness.

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Fossil Springs Wilderness – Fossil Springs Trail

Take a virtual hike through the Fossil Creek Wilderness! Fossil Creek Wilderness is one of the most spectacular areas in Arizona – so much so that permits are required from April 1-October 1. The Wilderness has 11,550 acres with 30 species of trees and shrubs and over 100 species of birds. Fossil Creek itself is one of two Wild & Scenic Rivers in Arizona as well, designated by Congress in 2009 after the Fossil Springs Dam was decommissioned by Arizona in 2005. Fossil Springs, the source of the creek, release 30 million gallons of water per day, incredibly prolific for its location in Arizona.

Arizona Trail, Day 46 – Passage 26 (Hardscrabble Mesa)

I finally get off around 11:30 & run into Matt and a female friend near East Tank. I’m glad for the company and we walk together for a while. The road condition is terrible – lots of loose basalt – and the going is slow. I finally reach the split to Strawberry and encounter them again, and their friend who picked them up flags me down and brings me a beer. Some more trail magic! I think my biggest challenges are becoming the pack weight and the solitude. I head for a short side trip to Fossil Creek.

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Arizona Trail, Day 45 – Passage 25 (Whiterock Mesa)

The trail first rolls through the pines and passes Pine Creek (dry) and Bradshaw Tank on its way to the top of Hardscrabble Mesa, which provides an excellent overlook of Oak Spring Canyon, the highlight of the passage, before dropping to the bottom. Like on the Highline, foliage still lingers in the warmer Canyon. I also spot some cool geology in what appears to be dikes in some of the rocks.

Arizona Trail, Day 43, Part III – Passage 27 (Highline)

The Arizona Trail following the Highline continues its route around Milk Ranch Point, passing some artifacts – perhaps ranching or mining related, as many seem to be in Arizona. Magnificent views to the south are common, with the Mazatzal Mountains an ever-increasing sight to the southeast.

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Arizona Trail, Day 43, Part II – Passage 27 (Highline)

Having filled up on water and eaten lunch, the trail ascends from Webber Creek and the Geronimo Trailhead toward Milk Ranch Point, jutting out from the Mogollon Rim. This is a much more consistently wooded & shaded stretch that appears to have been spared by the Dude Fire of 1990 and February Fire (2006). It also seems to be wetter here – there are still touches of green in the ferns as the trail ascends. Gamble oaks, maple and ponderosa dominate the trail through this stretch, and the light filtering through the canopy and the leaves is magical.

Arizona Trail, Day 42-43, Part I – Passage 27 (Highline)

The trail continues to roll across the eroded foothills of the Mogollon Rim, the impressive and distinctive southern boundary of the Colorado Plateau, where the elevation jumps around 4000 ft in elevation. The Highline continues to define itself as a diverse landscape where the species of the desert below and the pine forests above mingle.

The Mazatzal Mountains – the next major hurdle once I make it to Pine – loom in the distance as well, and ironwood line the more open stretches of path across the Highline, where the Dude Fire burned the forest in 1990,

Arizona Trail, Day 41 – Passage 27 (Highline), Part 3

The Arizona Trail continues west toward Pine, curving around parts of the Mogollon Rim that reach out, and segments that sit farther back, rolling across the eroded foothills beneath the parapets that’s tower overhead. The diverse plants continue to amaze. How often do you find blue spruce growing next to agave cactus!

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Arizona Trail, Day 41 – Passage 27 (Highline), Part 2

Arizona Trail, Day 41 – Passage 27 (Highline), Part 2

Magnificent views of the Mogollon Rim and one of the most ecologically diverse stretches of trail to date, this entry covers from the Washington Park Trailhead across the Highline National Recreation Trail.

Arizona Trail, Day 41 – Passage 27 (Highline)

It’s another chilly morning, camped directly on the Mogollon Rim. I’ll be dropping several thousand feet today to the base of the Rim, completing the long traverse of the Coconino National Forest and entering the Tonto National Forest with views that are nothing short of spectacular.

Arizona Trail, Day 40 – Passage 28 (Blue Ridge)

Managed to push through the entire Blue Ridge Passage today, one of my best days on the trail. I left the Blue Ridge Ranger Station this morning and headed south for the Rim. Saw a herd of elk near the Blue Ridge Campground and Elk Tank while climbing Blue Ridge itself. The trail also passed through an active prescribed burn, though it was low intensity so probably not considered a public hazard at this point. I’m familiar with them anyway, having worked as a PIO (public informations officer) on one over the summer at Grand Canyon. The trail crossed Blue Ridge and dipped across the steep valley of East Clear Creek, dry at the crossing.

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Arizona Trail, Day 39 – Passage 28 (Blue Ridge), Part 2

The trail crossed Blue Ridge and dipped across the steep valley of East Clear Creek, dry at the crossing. I was told that there may be water in one direction near the crossing but didn’t need it and therefore didn’t check. Climbing out the other side, the northern aspect of the slope is apparent – while ponderosas covered the southern slope opposite, the northern one featured Douglas fir and blue spruce. Obviously the different sides show different microclimates depending on the sun aspect, the temperature and moisture levels on each side given the orientation and angle of the slope. The trail rises back to the ponderosa forests on the Mogollon Plateau and traverses them, the site of my first human sighting in 3 days, then reaches General Springs Canyon. Dipping into General Springs Canyon, silence and quiet take hold. I passed a nice campsite near the end of GSC, but the pools nearby were still frozen at the end of the day, suggesting it would get colder in the canyon overnight (and that solar exposure during the day was limited) than on the Rim, so I continued forward to the rim itself. Lights can be seen in the distance, but I’m not sure which town. Likely Pine or Strawberry. Tomorrow begins the descent off the rim at long last.

Arizona Trail, Day 36 – Passage 29 (Happy Jack)

The low last night was projected to be 12º, the coldest night yet on the trail, and I would say that may well have been accurate. Fortunately I came prepared for such conditions. Today I will be one of the first to walk the full new Happy Jack passage routing south of Shuff Tank.

Arizona Trail, Day 35 – Passage 29 (Happy Jack)

It is brutally cold this morning, making it hard to even move much before 11. I believe it was around 20 at 9:00. Packing is a slow process in these temperatures. But, I pick up a few things that might make future packings faster in these temperatures, like doing most of it inside the tent at first and having a solid plan in advance to minimize time spent debating with oneself in the cold. Once packed, I head east along the forest road until coming to a trail crossing. There is a problem; the trail crosses on both sides. Clearly I missed a turnoff in the twilight yesterday evening. In both my purist nature and out of curiosity to see just where I made a wrong turn, I take the trail to the right, and it winds through the ponderosas back to Shuff Tank. It is clearly new, so this must be part of the new reroute, which has gone around the road stretch that I walked to get to the junction earlier. Instead of following the road on the north side of the tank, the trail now follows a singletrack around the west and south sides of the tank, then crosses the road on the east.

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Arizona Trail, Day 21, Part 2: Heart of the San Francisco Peaks (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 27)

(Note: If you enjoy this blog, please help support it by clicking separately on each post. Follow along for account of national park, public land, hiking, and cycling travels across the country!)

The Arizona Trail continues through massive groves of mature aspen and across rice grass meadows below the San Francisco Peaks. Contouring around below Humphreys and Agassiz Peaks, the two highest in Arizona, the view of the Peaks themselves and the western San Francisco Volcanic Field, over to Kendrick Peak and Bill Williams Mountain near Williams, is wide-open and magnificent. The quality of the aspens seems to be growing. I will again allow these magnificent trees to speak for themselves.

(The San Francisco Peaks are the highest peaks in Arizona today, including Humphreys at 12633 and Agassiz at 12360 ft. Native peoples such as the Hopi believe them to be the home of the Kachina spirits, supernatural beings that visit the villages in the first half of the year. This makes the Peaks exceptionally sacred to local Hopi and Zuni cultures. The wilderness that surrounds much of the Peaks is named the Kachina Wilderness in recognition of this connection, and to native peoples they are the Kachina Peaks.

Physically, the San Francisco Peaks are a product of a volcanic hotspot under northern Arizona that formed what we know of today as the San Francisco Volcanic Field, a cluster of lava fields, around 600 cinder cones, and lava domes surrounding Flagstaff. The most prominent feature are the Peaks, an extinct stratovolcano complex. San Francisco Mountain erupted around 400,000 years ago in a lateral blast (think Mt St. Helens). The eruption carved a hole in the northeast side of the mountain and is estimated to have lowered the height of the mountain by approximately 6000 ft. At an estimated height around 18000 ft prior to the eruption, had the eruption not taken place it would be the highest peak in the continental United States today. The view from the top reaches into Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico at a minimum. I’m not sure if you can see the southwest corner of Colorado. The most recent eruption in the San Francisco volcanic field was Sunset Crater, now contained within Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument and probably one of the most unexpected places for many visitors in the United States where one can walk on and get a hands-on experience with lava. Sunset Crater last erupted around 1085 AD, meaning there is human documentation of the event from native people.)

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The Arizona Trail approaches aspen groves as it passes through rice grass meadows on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Towering aspen groves along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Towering aspen groves along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Towering aspen groves along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Towering aspen groves along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest

Logistics for Today’s Stretch:

Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Length
Trail SurfaceSingletrack
SeasonSpring-Fall
Potential Water SourcesAlfa Fia Tank
TrailheadsArizona Snowbowl
ATA-Rated DifficultyModerate
Logistics for Section Hiked Today
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Towering aspen groves along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Towering aspen groves along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Towering aspen groves along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Towering aspen groves along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest

Logistics for Full Passage Length:

Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Length35.3 miles
Trail SurfaceMixed, dirt road & singletrack
SeasonSpring-Fall
Potential Water SourcesCedar Ranch supply box
East Cedar Tank
Kelly Tank & supply box
Alfa Fia Tank
Schultz Tank
TrailheadsArizona Snowbowl
ATA-Rated DifficultyModerate
Logistics for Full Passage Length
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Towering aspen groves and mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Towering aspens and mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Towering aspen groves and mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Towering aspens and mixed conifer groves along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Towering aspens and mixed conifer groves along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Towering aspens and mixed conifer groves along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Towering aspens and mixed conifer groves along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Towering aspen groves along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Towering aspens and mixed conifer groves along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Southwest view from the Arizona Trail on the lower slopes of the San Francisco Peaks, across US-180 toward Bill Williams Mountain
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Towering aspen groves among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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West panorama from the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks, over the San Francisco Volcanic Field, including Bill Williams Mountain (left), Sitgreaves Peak (center-left), and Kendrick Peak (center-right)
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Aspens tower above mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Aspens tower above mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Aspens tower above mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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Aspens tower above mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail on the San Francisco Peaks
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest
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The San Francisco Peaks tower over the rice grass meadows and aspen/mixed conifer forest of the lower slopes along the Arizona Trail. Humphreys Peak is center left, Agassiz on the right (the subsidiary peak in the middle is a false summit of Humphreys). The trail to the Humphreys summit ascends to the saddle between the center ridge point and Agassiz, and crosses the center peak to Humphreys
AZT Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Coconino National Forest

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Arizona Trail, Day 34 – Passage 30 (Mormon Lake), Day 3

It’s brutally cold this morning, notably because of the strong wind that whips across the clearing to the west. Not setting up the tent last night was a mistake. I ultimately fill up for the last time at Navajo Spring and run into a few dayhikers who have completed over 300 miles of the trail themselves. Two of them are the Grouper and the Oracle. I continue south, aiming for Gooseberry Springs TH and Passage 29, Happy Jack.

Arizona Trail, Day 33 – Mormon Lake Zero

It’s cold and raw after the rain the night before. I walk about 3 miles up the road to Double Springs and then use the AZT to get back to my prior campsite to grab the sleeping pad, then retrace my steps again. Did it hail up here?

Arizona Trail, Day 32 – Double Springs to Mormon Lake (Passage 30, Mormon Lake)

Heading south the trail passes an overlook of the ridges and of Mormon Lake itself, Arizona’s largest natural lake. It’s low (it often dries up under drought conditions to become Mormon Meadow) but the spring was wet enough that it hasn’t disappeared. It’s so windy that I’m almost blown off the overlook and my glasses ARE blown off (thankfully I catch them before they fall).

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Arizona Trail, Day 31 – Anderson Mesa to Double Springs (Passages 30, Mormon Lake)

There is a lot of cool railroad history west of Lake Mary Road, the trail follows an old logging railroad grade for much of the route and in places the ties are still visible. Very cool. The forest turns into a dense mixed conifer and I have a chance encounter with a mountain biker named Chris who recently moved here from Idaho. We talk about the trail ahead and some I’m looking at doing in Idaho.

Coronavirus and National Parks: All COVID-19 Impacts and Park Reopenings

Another period of big updates across the National Park System.

Here we will look at the status of all 500+ national parks and affiliates, see which have changed status or will soon, and look at the details of what is or is not currently available at each park.

Disclaimer: please observe all CDC recommendations for the safety of staff and visitors alike. They are there to help and serve you, please do them the courtesy of helping keep them safe.

Arizona Trail, Day 30 – Anderson Mesa (Passages 31 and 30, Walnut Canyon and Mormon Lake)

The trail reaches Lowell Observatory’s Navy Precision Optical Interferometer (NPOI). The NPOI measures precise relative positions of stars in the sky for the Naval Observatory to use as reference when determining geographic positions of locations on both Earth and in space, as well as for use in timekeeping. Over four football fields long, it uses a six-mirror array directing multiple light beams from a star to a single point, enhancing image detail and separating stars that are so close that even the largest conventional telescopes cannot separate them visually. Near the NPOI is an excellent view of Upper Lake Mary in the valley of Walnut Creek below, after which the trail continues across Anderson Mesa.

After reaching Horse Lake, I make camp for the night. The sky is black as coal and the night is filled with coyotes howling.

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Arizona Trail Thruhike, Day 26: Passage 31 (Walnut Canyon), Part 2 (Arizona/Utah Day 33)

The ponderosas are dense throughout, and their reddish bark glows in the light that filters through the green needles. The gambel oaks continue to impress along the route as well, adding splashes of yellow, red, and orange to the green ponderosa woodlands. The trail crosses two spur trails leading to overlooks with more magnificent views of the canyon.

Arizona Trail, Day 26: Passage 31 – Walnut Canyon (Arizona/Utah Day 33)

The trail crosses FR 303, Old Walnut Canyon Road, and heads west toward Flagstaff. Rolling in and out of drainages, It traces the rim of Walnut Canyon in places, and veers away into the woods in others. Heading west, the forest transitions back to the ponderosas, rolling up and down through drainages. The ponderosas are dense throughout, and their reddish bark glows in the light that filters through the green needles. The gambel oaks continue to impress along the route as well, adding splashes of yellow, red, and orange to the green ponderosa woodlands. The trail crosses two spur trails leading to overlooks with more magnificent views of the canyon. Both well worth the minor extra mileage and time.

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Arizona Trail: Walnut Canyon National Monument, Part 4

Wrapping up at Walnut Canyon National Monument. After wrapping up the fantastic Island Trail, the Rim Trail yields some great sites as well, including an unexcavated site and several pueblos. The views of the canyon itself are pretty amazing too.

Arizona Trail, Day 26: Walnut Canyon National Monument, Part 3

This morning starts with a stop at my last national park in northern Arizona, Walnut Canyon National Monument. Walnut Canyon National Monument protects over 80 cliff dwellings of the Northern Sinagua people. Named for the historic Spanish name for the general region, Sierra de Sin Agua, or “mountains without water,” the Sinagua people built the dwellings between 1125 and 1250 CE. The dwellings are, as the name suggests, located in Walnut Canyon, a 20 mile long, 400 ft deep and quarter mile wide canyon carved by Walnut Creek in the Mogollon Plateau southeast of Flagstaff.

Arizona Trail, Day 26: Walnut Canyon National Monument, Part 2

Walnut Canyon National Monument, one of 420 national parks in the National Park System, protects over 80 cliff dwellings of the Northern Sinagua people. Named for the historic Spanish name for the general region, Sierra de Sin Agua, or “mountains without water,” the Sinagua people built the dwellings between 1125 and 1250 CE. The dwellings are, as the name suggests, located in Walnut Canyon, a 20 mile long, 400 ft deep and quarter mile wide canyon carved by Walnut Creek in the Mogollon Plateau southeast of Flagstaff.

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Arizona Trail, Day 21: Heart of the San Francisco Peaks (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 27)

In the land of Arizona
Through desert heat or snow
Winds a trail for folks to follow
From Utah to Old Mexico

It’s the Arizona Trail
A pathway through the great Southwest
A diverse track through wood and stone
Your spirit it will test

Oh, sure you’ll sweat and blister
You’ll feel the miles every day
You’ll shiver at the loneliness
Your feet and seat will pay

But you’ll see moonlight on the borderlands
You’ll see stars on the Mogollon
You’ll feel the warmth of winter sun
And be thrilled straight through to bone

The aches and pains will fade away
You’ll feel renewed and whole
You’ll never be the same again
With Arizona in your soul

Along the Arizona Trail
A reverence and peace you’ll know
Through deserts, canyons, and mountains
From Utah to Old Mexico

“The Arizona Trail,” Dale R Shewalter

Welcome back to Aspen’s Tracks, thruhiking the Arizona Trail.

Chilly start this morning. Camp is surrounded by dry ferns and aspens on the lower slopes of the mighty San Francisco Peaks. It wasn’t evident last night, but getting up this morning as I pack up and the light filters through the branches that there are quite a few aspens around. These are much more mature and larger than most I saw on the Kaibab Plateau. A bikepacker comes through on the trail, and we talk for a while. Like the one I encountered hiking across Grand Canyon in May, he too carried his bike across the canyon on his back. That never ceases to amaze me. Also like the one from May, he estimates it probably adds about 20 pounds to his weight to disassemble and hike the bike across, which is really quite remarkable to consider.

I pack up and get on the trail. As the trail ascends again to traverse the mountain flank, the ponderosas transition further to aspens and mixed conifer forest again. These seem to be slightly past peak in places, but many are still quite magnificent. The trail passes through mature forest and rice grass meadows as it contours along the lower slopes of the mountains below Humphreys and Agassiz Peaks, the two highest peaks in Arizona. The weather is perfect, and the aspen leaves glow in the high elevation light. I’ll let some of their beauty again speak for themselves here, before continuing on in the next entry.

(The San Francisco Peaks are the highest peaks in Arizona today, including Humphreys at 12633 and Agassiz at 12360 ft. Native peoples such as the Hopi believe them to be the home of the Kachina spirits, supernatural beings that visit the villages in the first half of the year. This makes the Peaks exceptionally sacred to local Hopi and Zuni cultures. The wilderness that surrounds much of the Peaks is named the Kachina Wilderness in recognition of this connection, and to native peoples they are the Kachina Peaks.

Physically, the San Francisco Peaks are a product of a volcanic hotspot under northern Arizona that formed what we know of today as the San Francisco Volcanic Field, a cluster of lava fields, around 600 cinder cones, and lava domes surrounding Flagstaff. The most prominent feature are the Peaks, an extinct stratovolcano complex. San Francisco Mountain erupted around 400,000 years ago in a lateral blast (think Mt St. Helens). The eruption carved a hole in the northeast side of the mountain and is estimated to have lowered the height of the mountain by approximately 6000 ft. At an estimated height around 18000 ft prior to the eruption, had the eruption not taken place it would be the highest peak in the continental United States today. The view from the top reaches into Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico at a minimum. I’m not sure if you can see the southwest corner of Colorado. The most recent eruption in the San Francisco volcanic field was Sunset Crater, now contained within Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument and probably one of the most unexpected places for many visitors in the United States where one can walk on and get a hands-on experience with lava. Sunset Crater last erupted around 1085 AD, meaning there is human documentation of the event from native people.)

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Aspens and mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens and mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens and mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens and mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens and mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens and mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens and mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens and mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens and mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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The Arizona Trail passing through mixed conifer forest on the slopes of the San Francisco Peaks on Passage 34
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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611 miles to Mexico! Arizona Trail, Passage 34 (San Francisco Peaks)
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks
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Aspens among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 34: San Francisco Peaks

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Arizona Trail, Day 26: Walnut Canyon National Monument, Part I

Walnut Canyon National Monument protects over 80 cliff dwellings of the Northern Sinagua people. Named for the historic Spanish name for the general region, Sierra de Sin Agua, or “mountains without water,” the Sinagua people built the dwellings between 1125 and 1250 CE. The dwellings are, as the name suggests, located in Walnut Canyon, a 20 mile long, 400 ft deep and quarter mile wide canyon carved by Walnut Creek in the Mogollon Plateau southeast of Flagstaff.

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Arizona Trail, Day 24: Elden Mountain, Part 3 (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 31)

Welcome back to Aspen’s Tracks, thruhiking the Arizona Trail from Utah to Mexico. I want to note that this hike was completed before the coronavirus pandemic arrived, but it has left me with quite a bit of time in quarantine to write up my experiences on the trail. Exiting the shadow of Elden Mountain, I … Continue reading Arizona Trail, Day 24: Elden Mountain, Part 3 (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 31)

Arizona Trail, Day 24: Elden Mountain, Part 2 (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 31)

The Arizona Trail wraps past golden oaks and aspens through Schultz Pass and innumerable drainages, then opens out to areas potentially impacted by the 1977 Radio Fire. Hiking on, the trail skirts Little Elden Mountain. Views of Elden Mountain open up, and I hike across 89 through a tunnel, entering the Painted Canyon Preserve. Sunset clouds glow in the sky as I hike south.

Arizona Trail, Day 24: Elden Mountain (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 30)

The Arizona Trail wraps past golden oaks and aspens through Schultz Pass and innumerable drainages, then opens out to areas potentially impacted by the 1977 Radio Fire. Views of Elden Mountain open up, and I hike across US-89 through a tunnel, entering the Painted Canyon Preserve. Sunset clouds glow in the sky as I continue hiking south.

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Arizona Trail, Day 23: Flagstaff Zero (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 30)

Today is going to be a busy off day. I start it with a stop at Macy’s European Coffeehouse, an awesome breakfast place in downtown Flagstaff. They make particularly great waffles, but given the hiker hunger that all thruhikers suffer from, I add a smoothie and a breakfast sandwich for good measure today. I always make a point to stop here when I’m in Flag.

Arizona Trail, Day 22: Flagstaff, Part 3 (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 28)

The trail crosses to the flanks of Elden Mountain and continues to drop down toward Flagstaff. It crosses the Coconino National Forest border onto McMillan Mesa and into Buffalo Park, managed by Flagstaff. A wide rice grass meadow composes much of the park, crisscrossed with wide paths providing magnificent views of the San Francisco Peaks. Just magnificent, especially seen now in the late afternoon.

Arizona Trail, Day 22: Flagstaff, Part 2 (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 28)

The gambel oaks are glorious with the light passing through the leaves, and the views of Elden Mountain – the other side of which was “apocalyptically burned” in the 1970s Radio Fire, according to my AZT guidebook – are spectacular. Mule deer graze among the rice grass and trees. The gambel oaks continue to look incredible. It’s amazing how as I progress south I seem to be seeing the progression of the foliage across different tree species as well as within the species. Makes for an ever changing and spectacular color display.

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Arizona Trail, Day 21, Part 2: Heart of the San Francisco Peaks (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 27)

The Arizona Trail continues through massive groves of mature aspen and across rice grass meadows below the San Francisco Peaks. Contouring around below Humphreys and Agassiz Peaks, the two highest in Arizona, the view of the Peaks themselves and the western San Francisco Volcanic Field, over to Kendrick Peak and Bill Williams Mountain near Williams, is wide-open and magnificent.

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Arizona Trail, Day 21: Heart of the San Francisco Peaks (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 27)

As the trail ascends again to traverse the mountain flank, the ponderosas transition further to aspens and mixed conifer forest again. These seem to be slightly past peak in places, but many are still quite magnificent. The trail passes through mature forest and rice grass meadows as it contours along the lower slopes of the mountains below Humphreys and Agassiz Peaks, the two highest peaks in Arizona. The weather is perfect, and the aspen leaves glow in the high elevation light. I’ll let some of their beauty again speak for themselves here, before continuing on in the next entry.

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Arizona Trail, Day 18: Passage 35, Babbitt Ranch (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 24)

Well, I’ve officially found my least favorite part of the trail so far. The first 5 miles today from Moqui Stage Station to the border of the Kaibab National Forest are nice…and then the views disappear and a long roadwalk down a valley begins where one crosses into the Babbit Ranch Passage (Passage 35). The … Continue reading Arizona Trail, Day 18: Passage 35, Babbitt Ranch (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 24)

Arizona Trail, Day 17: Passage 36, Coconino Rim (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 23)

Today began with a continuation of the southward trek along the Coconino Rim. The rolling hike along the rim of the Coconino Plateau passes through a combination of ponderosas and, through the trees, views off the plateau toward the Navajo Nation. As the trail rises slowly back to the top of the rim and heads … Continue reading Arizona Trail, Day 17: Passage 36, Coconino Rim (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 23)

Arizona Trail, Day 15: Passage 37, Grand Canyon South Rim (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Days 21)

Unfortunately, I feel like the past few days off have broken my rhythm in terms of mileage. I spent last night with some friends on the South Rim before returning to camp for the night. Unfortunately, it seems I left my wallet at Maswik when I stopped there for dinner. So I’m up early, and … Continue reading Arizona Trail, Day 15: Passage 37, Grand Canyon South Rim (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Days 21)

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The Arizona Trail Day 9 – Passage 39, Grand Canyon Inner Canyon (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 16)

the trail reaches the Kaibab Bridge, or Black Bridge, over the Colorado River. A 440 ft suspension bridge, it is the crossing for all mule trips from the South Rim to Phantom Ranch, and along with the Silver Bridge downstream (visible from the Kaibab Bridge) it is one of only two crossings between the Navajo Bridge at Lee’s Ferry and Hoover Dam.

The river itself, unlike when I departed from Lee’s Ferry, is a deep brown today due to rain upstream. At such times, the river takes on its natural brown color, which in fact was what led to its name – “Rio Colorado,” meaning “colored river” or “red river” in Spanish. It’s refreshing to see it as it was seen for all of history before the construction of Glen Canyon Dam in the 1960s. 

In stark contrast to the North Rim at around 8800 ft, the Colorado at Phantom is only around 2500 ft, or around the same elevation as Phoenix, so the weather it experiences is more akin to Central Arizona valleys than it is the rims of the Canyon. A hike through Grand Canyon crosses between 5-8 ecosystems, depending of where the precise boundaries are drawn, and can be like hiking from Mexico to Canada from an ecological perspective. Below the rim, one passes through the riparian zone along the river, the Lower Sonoran Desert, Upper Sonoran Desert. The North Rim features ponderosa pine and mixed conifer forests, and the South Rim ponderosa pine and pinyon-juniper forest.

Passing through a brief tunnel on the south bank, the trail quickly ascends around 1500 ft to The Tipoff on the edge of the Tonto Platform, the rim of the Inner Canyon. During this climb, I am treated to some great views of river trips launching again after having lunch at Phantom Ranch. The trail crosses the Tonto Platform and begins to climb toward Skeleton Point, through sections of the South Kaibab with colorful names such as the “Red & Whites,” and with outstanding views of the formations and scale of the canyon.

The Arizona Trail, Day 8: Passage 38, Grand Canyon Inner Canyon, Part 1 (Trans-Arizona/Utah Day 15)

Grabbed a few things at the general store on the North Rim of Grand Canyon today, then packed up camp. The park has a number of special sites at the campground, available first-come, first-served, to those who hike or bike into the park. I then proceed over to the Backcountry Information Center, and get put … Continue reading The Arizona Trail, Day 8: Passage 38, Grand Canyon Inner Canyon, Part 1 (Trans-Arizona/Utah Day 15)

The Arizona Trail, Day 7, Part II: Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Part I (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 14)

To the south lies the San Francisco volcanic field, topped by the majestic San Francisco Peaks rising above. I’ll go into it in more detail as I approach them, but for now I’ll note that were it not for the canyon, the Peaks would be the most famous geological feature in Arizona. Humphreys Peak, the highest point, stands at 12,633 feet. The Arizona Trail will reach and wrap directly around their flank on the journey south. The city of Flagstaff lies immediately beyond, at the foot of the mountain on the south side. Through the trees one can make out the rim of the canyon, but the dominant view in the foreground is the aspen foliage mixed with spruce/fir and ponderosa forest. Grand Canyon National Park fills the foreground with aspen foliage mixed with spruce/fir and ponderosa forest. Heading back down the road, I head west on the AZT to the park entrance and then south through the aspens toward the Rim.

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The Arizona Trail, Day 6: Passage 40, Kaibab Plateau South, Part I

I’m on the trail early. As I noted in an earlier entry, one of the perils of combining being a seasonal ranger and thruhiking in the offseason (or shoulder seasons) is that one must make oneself available for interviews in sometimes inconvenient times or places. I owe a park a return call at some point … Continue reading The Arizona Trail, Day 6: Passage 40, Kaibab Plateau South, Part I

The Arizona Trail, Day 5, Part III: South Kaibab Plateau (Passage 40), Part II

Toward the end of the day there is a second encounter with another thruhiker, this time with Eric, the hiker that I encountered several days ago when he was headed northbound (nobo) to Utah; he’s now headed southbound (sobo). Hiking together for a stretch, Eric and I come to a golden tree tunnel of aspens … Continue reading The Arizona Trail, Day 5, Part III: South Kaibab Plateau (Passage 40), Part II

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The Arizona Trail, Day 5, Part II: Southern Kaibab Plateau (Passage 40)

Hiking south on Passage 40, the backpacker crosses Telephone Hill, where the pines and aspens offer a respite from the Kaibab winds. Dropping down the back side, the trail passes Crane Lake and proceeds south through a meadow before gradually ascending into aspens and pines once again. Aspens dominate the remainder of the route, rolling across hills hiking south toward Little Round Valley.

The Arizona Trail, Day 4: Central Kaibab Plateau, Part III (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 11)

The trail continues through the burn scar of the 2006 Warm Fire, In between looking around at the aspens in the prior two posts, a crack opens in the tree line to the west. The first southbound view of Grand Canyon opens up in the distance. I ultimately ran out of light in the burn … Continue reading The Arizona Trail, Day 4: Central Kaibab Plateau, Part III (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 11)

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The Arizona Trail, Day 3: Northern and Central Kaibab Plateau (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 10)

Continuing across the northern Kaibab today and onto the central (Passage 41). I encounter my first AZT hiker, Eric, to whom I give a great recommendation for Vermilion Cliffs – anyone who read my entries for the first week of this trek surely knows why. I also encounter some friends from Grand Canyon who were … Continue reading The Arizona Trail, Day 3: Northern and Central Kaibab Plateau (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 10)

The Arizona Trail, Day 2: Buckskin Mountain to Kaibab Plateau North (Arizona/Utah Day 9)

Another early start. I make it off Passage 43 (Buckskin Mountain) by mid morning and break into the northern Kaibab Plateau (Passage 42). The land shifts from BLM land at the start and enters the Kaibab National Forest south of the Passage boundary. I’m having some issues charging given the intermittent shade cast by the … Continue reading The Arizona Trail, Day 2: Buckskin Mountain to Kaibab Plateau North (Arizona/Utah Day 9)

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The Arizona Trail, Day 1 (AZ/UT Day 8, Part 4)

“In the land of Arizona
Through desert heat or snow
Winds a trail for folks to follow
From Utah to Old Mexico

It’s the Arizona Trail
A pathway through the great Southwest
A diverse track through wood and stone
Your spirit it will test

Oh, sure you’ll sweat and blister
You’ll feel the miles every day
You’ll shiver at the loneliness
Your feet and seat will pay

But you’ll see moonlight on the borderlands
You’ll see stars on the Mogollon
You’ll feel the warmth of winter sun
And be thrilled straight through to bone

The aches and pains will fade away
You’ll feel renewed and whole
You’ll never be the same again
With Arizona in your soul

Along the Arizona Trail
A reverence and peace you’ll know
Through deserts, canyons, and mountains
From Utah to Old Mexico”

Arizona Trail Approach Day 8, Part 1 – Buckskin Gulch to the Arizona Trail (Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness, Vermilion Cliffs National Monument)

Broke camp early in Buckskin Gulch this morning and headed out. I make better time than I expect, and encounter the Dragoos from Oklahoma about 1.5 mi from Wire Pass. I’m surprised that I’m that close to the Pass, since I hadn’t expected to make it for several miles. We have breakfast together and hike … Continue reading Arizona Trail Approach Day 8, Part 1 – Buckskin Gulch to the Arizona Trail (Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness, Vermilion Cliffs National Monument)

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Arizona Trail, Day 20: Passage 34, San Francisco Peaks (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 26)

In the land of Arizona
Through desert heat or snow
Winds a trail for folks to follow
From Utah to Old Mexico

It’s the Arizona Trail
A pathway through the great Southwest
A diverse track through wood and stone
Your spirit it will test

Oh, sure you’ll sweat and blister
You’ll feel the miles every day
You’ll shiver at the loneliness
Your feet and seat will pay

But you’ll see moonlight on the borderlands
You’ll see stars on the Mogollon
You’ll feel the warmth of winter sun
And be thrilled straight through to bone

The aches and pains will fade away
You’ll feel renewed and whole
You’ll never be the same again
With Arizona in your soul

Along the Arizona Trail
A reverence and peace you’ll know
Through deserts, canyons, and mountains
From Utah to Old Mexico

“The Arizona Trail,” Dale R Shewalter

Slow start. I overslept by 15 minutes past sunrise, but the views atop Missouri Bill are fantastic – all the way to the North Rim, the Navajo and Hopi Nations, and the San Francisco Peaks. Small alpine plants are blooming, too.

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North panorama atop Missouri Bill Hill in the Coconino National Forest. View over the Navajo Nation, Hopi Mesas, and the San Francisco Volcanic Field. Center distance is the North Rim of Grand Canyon.
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Wildflowers atop Missouri Bill Hill in the San Francisco Volcanic Field.
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Wildflowers atop Missouri Bill Hill in the San Francisco Field along the Arizona Trail
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West panorama from atop Missouri Bill Hill along the Arizona Trail in the Coconino National Forest, including the San Francisco Peaks and Volcanic Field.
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Cinder cones of the San Francisco Volcanic Field from atop Missouri Bill Hill in the Coconino National Forest
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Cholla cactus on Missouri Bill Hill in the Coconino National Forest

For those who didn’t see my last post, another note about the San Francisco Peaks. They are the highest peaks in Arizona today, including Humphreys at 12633 and Agassiz at 12360 ft. They are a product of a volcanic hotspot under northern Arizona that formed what we know of today as the San Francisco Volcanic Field, a cluster of lava fields, around 600 cinder cones, and lava domes surrounding Flagstaff. The most prominent feature are the Peaks, an extinct stratovolcano complex. San Francisco Mountain erupted around 400,000 years ago in a lateral blast (think Mt St. Helens). The eruption carved a hole in the northeast side of the mountain and is estimated to have lowered the height of the mountain by approximately 6000 ft. At an estimated height around 18000 ft prior to the eruption, had the eruption not taken place it would be the highest peak in the continental United States today. The view from the top reaches into Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico at a minimum. I’m not sure if you can see the southwest corner of Colorado. The most recent eruption in the San Francisco volcanic field was Sunset Crater, now contained within Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument and probably one of the most unexpected places for many visitors in the United States where one can walk on and get a hands-on experience with lava. Sunset Crater last erupted around 1085 AD, meaning there is human documentation of the event from native people.

I head back down and south along the AZT, encountering a European couple heading nobo, fnishing what they started in the spring (apparently they bailed when they ran into a blizzard in Flagstaff in April), and yet another friendly camper. The ecosystems change again, from pinyon-juniper to sparse ponderosa. These also seem affected by dwarf mistletoe, and it’s obvious a prescribed burn or wildfire has come through.

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The Arizona Trail approaches the San Francisco Peaks, lit up by aspens in fall foliage on their slopes. The center of this view of the Peaks is the area that was blown out by its last eruption. Humphreys Peak on the right, 12633 ft, is the highest in Arizona. Coconino National Forest, Arizona.
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The Arizona Trail crosses back from pinyon-juniper into ponderosa forest in the Coconino National Forest
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The Arizona Trail crosses back from pinyon-juniper into ponderosa forest in the Coconino National Forest
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The Arizona Trail heads through ponderosa pines toward the San Francisco Peaks in the Coconino National Forest
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Ponderosa pines amid golden rice grass along the Arizona Trail in the Coconino National Forest

A gorgeous view of the peaks with aspen on their middle flanks appears, an irressistible photo op. After a brief retracing of steps for my camp light, it is on to Kelly Tank, encountering a strung-out group of hikers from Maine, South Carolina, and Washington. We talk and fill up on water, me providing recommendations for Grand Canyon & Flagstaff.

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Rice grass meadows among the ponderosa pines and mighty San Francisco Peaks lit by aspens. Humphreys Peak, right, is the highest in Arizona at 12633 ft. Arizona Trail, Coconino National Forest.
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Rice grass meadows among the ponderosa pines and mighty San Francisco Peaks lit by aspens. Humphreys Peak (12633) is on the right, highest in Arizona. Arizona Trail, Coconino National Forest.

Then it is on through the glowing light beams through the ponderosa, on to camp among the aspens at around 8300 ft, and the discovery of the largest, most painless blister I’ve ever had. Unsurprisingly, right around a spot I’ve been trying to treat for possible fungal infection. Maybe a connection there? Also, everything around – grasses, ferns – totally browned out from the dry summer.

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Another skeleton, showing the harsh reality of the area despite its beauty on fall evenings.
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Sunset light ignites the tip of ponderosas on the lower slopes of the San Francisco Peaks.
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Cinder cones of the San Francisco Volcanic Field aglow in evening light. Arizona Trail, Coconino National Forest
Passage 34 – San Francisco Peaks
Trail SurfaceMixed – Dirt Road, Singletrack
Length
SeasonSpring-Fall
Potential Water SourcesKelly Tank & supply box
TrailheadsNone
ATA Rated DifficultyModerate
Logistical Information for distance hiked today
Passage 34 – San Francisco Peaks
Trail SurfaceMixed – Dirt Road & Singletrack
Length35.3 miles
SeasonSpring-Fall
Potential Water SourcesCedar Ranch
East Cedar Tank
Kelly Tank & supply box
Alfa Fia Tank
Schultz Tank
TrailheadsCedar Ranch
Arizona Snowbowl
Schultz Pass
ATA Rated DifficultyModerate
Logistical Information, full passage length

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Arizona Trail Approach Day 6: Paría Canyon and Buckskin Gulch (Vermilion Cliffs National Monument)

I’m running low on battery in these canyons with extremely limited solar power to recharge. The day starts with a flight of bats flying down the canyon. After that exciting start, I decide to hike up to Slide Rock and then turn around and hit Buckskin Gulch. Just past the confluence of Paría Canyon and … Continue reading Arizona Trail Approach Day 6: Paría Canyon and Buckskin Gulch (Vermilion Cliffs National Monument)

Arizona Trail Approach Day 7: Buckskin Gulch, Paría Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness (Vermilion Cliffs National Monument)

After several hours spent trying to fill water bags and talking with a friendly BLM ranger, as well as a farewell encounter with Philip and Raj, I head up Buckskin Gulch. After dragging my pack over the boulder jam – a much more difficult undertaking than yesterday without the pack – I start up canyon … Continue reading Arizona Trail Approach Day 7: Buckskin Gulch, Paría Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness (Vermilion Cliffs National Monument)

Arizona Trail Approach Day 5: Paría Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness (Vermilion Cliffs National Monument)

Dawn finds me encamped at Big Springs. I get another slow start than I’d like, this time due to weather. Expecting potential rain and knowing about remnants of Tropical Storm Lorena in area, and in relatively safe spot with gear prepped for rain, I opt to wait. Flash floods are the top weather-related killer in … Continue reading Arizona Trail Approach Day 5: Paría Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness (Vermilion Cliffs National Monument)

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Arizona Trail Approach Day 3: Paría Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness (Vermilion Cliffs National Monument)

Slow start this morning. The spring that I reached yesterday, the first on the trail, is little more than a trickle, and I have a lot of water to fill. It marks the border between the Chinle Formation and the Wingate Sandstone. As I begin to wind my way further up Paria Canyon, deeper and … Continue reading Arizona Trail Approach Day 3: Paría Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness (Vermilion Cliffs National Monument)

What is Wilderness?

As I enter the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Area, I think that it’s important to take a moment to discuss the concept of wilderness.

The 1964 Wilderness Act, signed by President Lyndon Johnson, states “a wilderness in contrast with those areas where man and his own works dominate the landscape, is hereby recognized as an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.“ It was signed on September 3rd, 1964 and gives Congress the authority to create wilderness areas within public lands where things that are associated with manmade civilization – such as mechanized transportation, developed campgrounds, etc. – are prohibited and the area is allowed to remain in as natural a state as possible.

Arizona Trail Approach Day 2: Paría Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness (Vermilion Cliffs National Monument)

Today was an absolutely exhilarating day. I climbed around countless rapids and waterfalls heading up Paria Canyon further into the wilderness area in Vermilion Cliffs National Monument. The soil around here can be cryptobiotic – essentially, living – so I stayed in the stream whenever possible to avoid damaging living soil. The canyon has started … Continue reading Arizona Trail Approach Day 2: Paría Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness (Vermilion Cliffs National Monument)

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The Arizona Trail, Day 7, Part II: Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Part I (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 14)

In the land of Arizona
Through desert heat or snow
Winds a trail for folks to follow
From Utah to Old Mexico

It’s the Arizona Trail
A pathway through the great Southwest
A diverse track through wood and stone
Your spirit it will test

Oh, sure you’ll sweat and blister
You’ll feel the miles every day
You’ll shiver at the loneliness
Your feet and seat will pay

But you’ll see moonlight on the borderlands
You’ll see stars on the Mogollon
You’ll feel the warmth of winter sun
And be thrilled straight through to bone

The aches and pains will fade away
You’ll feel renewed and whole
You’ll never be the same again
With Arizona in your soul

Along the Arizona Trail
A reverence and peace you’ll know
Through deserts, canyons, and mountains
From Utah to Old Mexico

“The Arizona Trail,” Dale R Shewalter

The North Rim lookout is located near the highest point on the entire Arizona Trail. A historical geographic marker still bearing the Forest Service name (the tower was moved to its current location inside the park in the 1930s) is beside the tower, along with a historic lookout register sign. This particular tower is also notable for a particularly famous lookout – Edward Abbey once staffed it for four years from the late 60s into the 70s. The historic guide to using the “FireFinder” system is still present in the room at the top of the lookout.

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North Rim Lookout geographic marker
Grand Canyon National Park
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FireFinder instruction guide, originally from Six Rivers National Forest
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Osbourne FireFinder system

Climbing to the top of the lookout, one can see the Ikes Fire actively burning to the west. Through the haze, the shadow of Mt Trumbull and other peaks in Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument can be seen.

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West view from North Rim Lookout Tower
Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

To the south lies the San Francisco volcanic field, topped by the majestic San Francisco Peaks rising above. I’ll go into it in more detail as I approach them, but for now I’ll note that were it not for the canyon, the Peaks would be the most famous geological feature in Arizona. Humphreys Peak, the highest point, stands at 12,633 feet. The Arizona Trail will reach and wrap directly around their flank on the journey south. The city of Flagstaff lies immediately beyond, at the foot of the mountain on the south side. Through the trees one can make out the rim of the canyon, but the dominant view in the foreground is the aspen foliage mixed with spruce/fir and ponderosa forest. Grand Canyon National Park fills the foreground with aspen foliage mixed with spruce/fir and ponderosa forest. Heading back down the road, I head west on the AZT to the park entrance.

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San Francisco Volcanic Field from the North Rim Lookout Tower. From left to right, O’Leary Peak, the San Francisco Peaks (Humphreys Peak highest), Kendrick Peak, and Red Mountain in Coconino National Forest
Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

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East-South view from North Rim Lookout Tower
Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona
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Aspen meadow below the North Rim Lookout Tower
Grand Canyon National Park
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South/Southwest view from North Rim Lookout Tower
Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The trail descends down the old road that led to the fire lookout until it reaches AZ-67 at the North Rim Entrance Station.

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Aspens along Lookout Road east of the North Rim Entrance Station
Arizona Trail Passage 39, Grand Canyon North Rim
Grand Canyon National Park

I check in with the ranger there, who asks if I need anything, but I’m good for now. There was water available for hikers near the station. After some slight confusion about the route leaving that area, I pick up the trail again (purist that I am, after retracing some steps, admittedly) and follow it south.

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Aspens on Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill
AZT Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park
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Aspens tunnels on Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill
Grand Canyon North Rim (AZT Passage 39)
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Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill
AZT Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park
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Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill
AZT Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park
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Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill
AZT Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park
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Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill
AZT Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park
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Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill
Arizona Trail Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park
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Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill
AZT Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park
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Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill
AZT Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park
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Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill
AZT Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park
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Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill
AZT Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park
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Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill
AZT Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park
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Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill
AZT Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park
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Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill
AZT Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park
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Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill
AZT Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park
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Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill

AZT Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park
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Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill
AZT Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park
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Arizona Trail north of Lindbergh Hill
AZT Passage 39, Grand Canyon National Park
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South Rim to Lee’s Ferry

First day description, traveling from the South Rim of Grand Canyon to Marble Canyon and Lee’s Ferry in preparation for beginning the southbound trek to Mexico.

Prologue: The Arizona Trail

I finally bit the bullet on a thruhike. Since I arrived at Grand Canyon National Park in March, I have been considering thruhiking the Arizona Trail across the state. For those who don’t know, the Arizona Trail is an 800 mile long hiking trail across Arizona. It starts at the Utah state line, skirts Buckskin … Continue reading Prologue: The Arizona Trail

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The Journey Begins

Thanks for joining me! Good company in a journey makes the way seem shorter. — Izaak Walton

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The Arizona Trail, Day 7: Passage 40, Kaibab Plateau South to Passage 39, Grand Canyon North Rim, Part I (Trans-Arizona/Utah Hike Day 14)

Another cold morning. There are icicles in my water and some food has frozen. I’m on the trail around 7:30. I’m in the vicinity of the highest point on the entire Arizona Trail. Setting out, the trail winds through meadows and past more aspen groves mixed with spruce/fir forest and crosses the unmarked highpoint just before reaching the Grand Canyon National Park boundary. Passing a boundary sign similar to the one encountered at Lee’s Ferry two weeks ago when I first set out, the AZT passes through another extensive aspen meadow and eventually a trail branches off leading to the historic North Rim fire lookout.

Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 40, Kaibab National Forest
Arizona Trail, Passage 39, Grand Canyon North Rim, Grand Canyon National Park
Arizona Trail, Passage 39, Grand Canyon North Rim, Grand Canyon National Park
Arizona Trail, Passage 39, Grand Canyon North Rim, Grand Canyon National Park
Arizona Trail, Passage 39, Grand Canyon North Rim, Grand Canyon National Park
Arizona Trail, Passage 39, Grand Canyon North Rim, Grand Canyon National Park
Arizona Trail, Passage 39, Grand Canyon North Rim, Grand Canyon National Park
Arizona Trail, Passage 39, Grand Canyon North Rim, Grand Canyon National Park
Arizona Trail, Passage 39, Grand Canyon North Rim, Grand Canyon National Park
Arizona Trail, Passage 39, Grand Canyon North Rim, Grand Canyon National Park
Arizona Trail, Passage 39, Grand Canyon North Rim, Grand Canyon National Park

The Arizona Trail, Day 6: Passage 40, Kaibab Plateau South, Part I

In the land of Arizona
Through desert heat or snow
Winds a trail for folks to follow
From Utah to Old Mexico

It’s the Arizona Trail
A pathway through the great Southwest
A diverse track through wood and stone
Your spirit it will test

Oh, sure you’ll sweat and blister
You’ll feel the miles every day
You’ll shiver at the loneliness
Your feet and seat will pay

But you’ll see moonlight on the borderlands
You’ll see stars on the Mogollon
You’ll feel the warmth of winter sun
And be thrilled straight through to bone

The aches and pains will fade away
You’ll feel renewed and whole
You’ll never be the same again
With Arizona in your soul

Along the Arizona Trail
A reverence and peace you’ll know
Through deserts, canyons, and mountains
From Utah to Old Mexico

“The Arizona Trail,” Dale R Shewalter

I’m on the trail early. As I noted in an earlier entry, one of the perils of combining being a seasonal ranger and thruhiking in the offseason (or shoulder seasons) is that one must make oneself available for interviews in sometimes inconvenient times or places. I owe a park a return call at some point today. Based on the tip I received from a nobo hiker yesterday, I hope to have service at the East Rim Overlook about 2 miles south of my campsite last night. Hiking south, the trail passes through even more glorious aspens on its way to the overlook.

Passage 40: Kaibab Plateau South
Trail SurfaceDirt singletrack, occasionally doubletrack
Length (Mi)20.7
Elevation Change (ft)TBD
SeasonSpring-fall; winter brings feet of snow
Potential Water SourcesCrane Lake
Unnamed tank/lake
Little Pleasant Valley Tank
TrailheadsNorth: Telephone Hill (north) at FR 241
South: Grand Canyon National Park/Kaibab National Forest boundary
ATA-Rated DifficultyEasy to Moderate
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) while hiking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) while backpacking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) while hiking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) while hiking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) while hiking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
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Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) while hiking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) while hiking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) while hiking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) beside rice grass meadows hiking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) beside rice grass meadows while backpacking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
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Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) beside rice grass meadows while hiking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) beside rice grass meadows while backpacking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) beside rice grass meadows while hiking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) beside rice grass meadows while backpacking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) beside rice grass meadows while hiking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
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Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) beside rice grass meadows while backpacking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) beside rice grass meadows while hiking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) beside rice grass meadows while backpacking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) beside rice grass meadows while hiking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) beside rice grass meadows while backpacking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) beside rice grass meadows while hiking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest
Aspens in fall colors stand among mixed conifers (spruce, fir, ponderosa pine) beside rice grass meadows while backpacking the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 40
Kaibab National Forest

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The Arizona Trail, Day 5, Part III: South Kaibab Plateau (Passage 40), Part II

Toward the end of the day there is a second encounter with another thruhiker, this time with Eric, the hiker that I encountered several days ago when he was headed northbound (nobo) to Utah; he’s now headed southbound (sobo). Hiking together for a stretch, Eric and I come to a golden tree tunnel of aspens where the trail bends away from the road, then descend into Upper Tater Canyon. He’s moving faster so he presses on. It’s nearing sunset, but I can feel the breeze start to pick up and come up the valley. I have no desire to repeat last night, so exhausted as I am, I push through an extra few miles to reach cover. The trail crosses Upper Tater and ascends a ridge on the east side as it heads toward the east rim of the Kaibab Plateau. I spot a relatively flat camp spot beside the trail with some trees that can act as a wind fence and call it a day after about 17-18 miles just shy of the East Rim overlook where I hope to have service for my interview.

Relive video, Part III
Arizona Trail descending into Pleasant Valley, Kaibab Plateau South (Passage 40), Kaibab National Forest
Aspen foliage along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspen foliage along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Panoramic aspen foliage along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Panoramic aspen foliage along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspen foliage along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Panoramic aspen foliage along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspen foliage among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspen foliage among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Golden tunnel of aspens along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspens along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspens along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Golden tunnel of aspens along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Golden aspens along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspen foliage along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspen foliage along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Panoramic aspen foliage along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspen foliage along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspen foliage along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspen foliage along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspen foliage along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspen foliage among mixed conifers along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspen foliage along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspen foliage along the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Evening in Upper Tater Canyon on the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Evening in Upper Tater Canyon on the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Evening in Upper Tater Canyon on the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Evening in Upper Tater Canyon on the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspen grove in Upper Tater Canyon on the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Evening in Upper Tater Canyon on the Arizona Trail, Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspens and mixed conifer lining the Arizona Trail climbing out of Upper Tater Canyon on Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Aspens and mixed conifer lining the Arizona Trail climbing out of Upper Tater Canyon on Passage 40 (Kaibab Plateau South), Kaibab National Forest
Day 12 route