AZT Passage 16: Gila River Canyons
Arizona Trail Day 64, Part 2
Trans-Arizona/Utah Day 72, Part 2

Welcome back to Aspen’s Tracks, thruhiking the Arizona Trail southbound from Utah to Mexico. Today’s route covers backpacking the stretch of Passage 16, the Gila River Canyons, between the northern AZT passage boundary at the Tonto National Forest’s southern edge to my first night’s camp on the passage at the Gila River. You can find today’s hiking logistics below the photo documentation and trail journal of the route.

If you missed my last entry covering the leg through the prior segment of the Gila River Canyons, that can be found here. The next entry will cover the continued journey along the Gila toward the crossing at the Kelvin-Riverside Bridge. If you enjoy these accounts, please do subscribe to follow along to make sure that you don’t miss out on here or any future accounts to come!

(Note: the photos herein are smaller and at 50% quality, however, full quality ones are available to those interested, please contact me separately if so. This change was made to speed page loading but if you would prefer the full quality images please leave a comment to let me know).

In the land of Arizona
Through desert heat or snow
Winds a trail for folks to follow
From Utah to Old Mexico

It’s the Arizona Trail
A pathway through the great Southwest
A diverse track through wood and stone
Your spirit it will test

Some will push and pedal
And some will hike or run
Others will ride their horse or mule
What else could be more fun?


Oh, sure you’ll sweat and blister
You’ll feel the miles each day
You’ll shiver at the loneliness
Your feet and seat will pay

But you’ll see moonlight on the borderlands
You’ll see stars on the Mogollon
You’ll feel the warmth of winter sun
And be thrilled straight through to bone

The aches and pains will fade away
You’ll feel renewed and whole
You’ll never be the same again
With Arizona in your soul

Along the Arizona Trail
A reverence and peace you’ll know
Through deserts, canyons, and mountains
From Utah to Old Mexico

“The Arizona Trail,” Dale R Shewalter

Arizona Trail: Martinez Canyon Overlook-Dale’s Butte

Cresting the pass after the overlook into Martinez Canyon reveals a spectacular view to the south. Numerous mountains can be seen stretching into the distance across the Gila Valley. The rocks seem to increase in color, and rugged ridgelines soar overhead, carved by wind and water over countless millennia.

Cresting the highest pass, view back toward Martinez Canyon
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
View back up the AZT toward some of the rock outcroppings and canyons on the ridgeline above
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Descending toward the Gila River along the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
South view from Arizona Trail descent toward Gila River
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Saguaro covered slopes in the ountains and canyons around Gila River
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)


The trail descends to the Gila through a chain of canyons and drainages and past rugged peaks, Saguaros, and buttes. Views to the south stretch into the distance under the crystal blue Arizona sky. Prominent among these is an officially unnamed one trail users have started calling “Dale’s Butte” after Dale Shewalter, the “father of the AZT.” Ocotillo are blooming after the big storm that hit a few days ago as well, yet more evidence of the profound impact that rain in the desert can have on its inhabitants.

Saguaro dot descent toward Gila River from Martinez Canyon Overlook
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Rugged cliffs and outcrops along the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Dale’s Butte along the AZT
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Saguaro on the slopes rising above the Arizona Trail & Gila River to rocky cliffs
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Blooming Octotillo after rain
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)

Arizona Trail: Dale’s Butte-AZT Low Point

I stop partway down to soak in the view across and eastward along the Gila River Valley. As the trail descends, more views and angles on Dale’s Butte as well as many other outcrops and elements of the rugged landscape emerge. It’s all just absolutely spectacular. This is prime Gila monster territory, too, so I’m keeping my eyes peeled, but don’t see any today.

Rugged rock outcrops in the mountains around the Gila River Canyons
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Blooming Octotillo closeup after rain
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Sunlight on Dale’s Butte
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Palo Verde trees with Dale’s Butte rising above
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)

AZT Low Point-Gila River Camp

Upon reaching the Gila, the trail encounters a floodplain forest, including mesquite, Fremont cottonwoods, willows and more. This marks the lowest point on the entire Arizona Trail, the culmination of over two months of rolling descent (in aggregate). The trail makes a hard east turn and begins to roll along the Gila River to the east, marking the beginning of the second major defining section of the passage. Mining shafts are present as it starts to roll along the River. I ultimately find a campsite and settle in for the night.

Backpacking the Arizona Trail: Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Hiking the Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Dale’s Butte rises above saguaros along the Gila River
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Cliffs of Martinez Canyon (where the AZT just descended from) behind Dale’s Butte
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Afternoon at Dale’s Butte
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Backpacking the Arizona Trail: Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Late afternoon light on the AZT in the Gila River Canyons
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Southward view on the Arizona Trail in the late afternoon
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Icing light on the cliff tops beside the Gila River and Arizona Trail
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Late afternoon light on the AZT in the Gila River Canyons
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Afternoon on the Arizona Trail, passing through floodplain forest beside the Gila River
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
AZT in late afternoon in the Gila River Canyons
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Cacti beside the Arizona Trail in late afternoon, looking toward a narrow point in the Gila River Canyon
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
AZT sunset in the Gila River Canyons
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Cacti under the moon at sunset beside the Arizona Trail in the Gila River Canyons
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Sunset along the AZT in the Gila River Canyons
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Gila River at sunset
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Sunset along the Gila River
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Old mine entrance along the Arizona Trail
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Mountains along the AZT beside the Gila River at sunset
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Cacti against “Arizona’s Aurora” at sunset along the Arizona Trail
Arizona Trail, Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)

Passage 16 Logistics

Passage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
AZTA Page and MapPassage 16 (Gila River Canyons)
Passage 16 Map
Passage 16 Elevation Profile
WeatherPassage 16 Weather
Trail SurfaceDirt Singletrack
Length (Mi)25.7
SeasonSeptember-May
Potential Water Sources
Gila River is unreliable and must be prefiltered and/or settled when flowing. Walnut Canyon may have water.

Full sources & Current Status:
Arizona Trail Water Sources
TrailheadsNorth: Tonto National Forest boundary
South: Kelvin-Riverside Bridge
Trailhead AccessNorth: No vehicular access
South: Vehicular access via paved road
WildernessNo
Possible resupply pointsSuperior (north end)
Kearny (south end, requires roadwalk or hitch)
ATA-Rated DifficultyDifficult
Potential campsitesTerrain is pretty dry and rugged, but there are numerous campsites along the section paralleling the Gila River.
Ecosystems TraversedArizona Upland, mostly
Riparian along the Gila River
Highlights Rugged canyon scenery
Gila River
Walnut Canyon
Wildlife
Dog friendly?Yes
Bike friendly?Yes
HazardsOne of driest passage on trail. Gila River is unreliable and must be prefiltered and/or settled when flowing. Walnut Canyon may have water.

Extreme Heat in summer

Flash flooding during monsoon (July-September)

Passage 16 Ecology

Arizona UplandRiparian
Common Trees/Shrubs* Fairy duster
* Blue and littleleaf palo verde
* Fremont wolfberry
* Graythorn
* Ocotillo
* Red barberry
* Scrub-live oak
* Snapdragon-penstemon
* Turpentine bush
* Velvet mesquite
* Whitethron acacia
* Fremont Cottonwood
* Tamarisk/salt cedar (invasive)
* Goodding’s willow
Common herbaceous plants* California flannelbush [rare in Arizona, Superstition Mountains included]
* Bluedicks
* Brittlebush
* California poppies
* Creamcups
* Desert chicory
* Desert rockpea
* Desert windflower
* Fringed red maids
* Globemallows
* Lupines
* Sego-lily
Common succulents* Arizona pencil cholla
* Banana yucca
* Soaptree yucca
* Buckhorn cholla
* Cane cholla
* Chainfruit
* Hedgehog cactus
* Pencil cholla
* Pincushion cactus
* Prickly pears
* Saguaro
* Teddybear cholla
Source: Arizona Trail Association AZT Guide & NatureServe). Only California and Texas are more diverse ecologically than Arizona.