Arizona Trail, Day 42-43, Part I – Passage 27 (Highline)

In the land of Arizona
Through desert heat or snow
Winds a trail for folks to follow
From Utah to Old Mexico

It’s the Arizona Trail
A pathway through the great Southwest
A diverse track through wood and stone
Your spirit it will test

Oh, sure you’ll sweat and blister
You’ll feel the miles every day
You’ll shiver at the loneliness
Your feet and seat will pay

But you’ll see moonlight on the borderlands
You’ll see stars on the Mogollon
You’ll feel the warmth of winter sun
And be thrilled straight through to bone

The aches and pains will fade away
You’ll feel renewed and whole
You’ll never be the same again
With Arizona in your soul

Along the Arizona Trail
A reverence and peace you’ll know
Through deserts, canyons, and mountains
From Utah to Old Mexico

“The Arizona Trail,” Dale R Shewalter

Well, I lost most of yesterday to a round of applications for work for the spring. I did get a beautiful sunset with the Mogollon Rim absorbing and radiating the color splendidly at the end of getting all my applications in, though.

This morning, I pack up and continue south (in name; west in reality) along the AZT toward Pine. The trail continues to roll across the eroded foothills of the Mogollon Rim, the impressive and distinctive southern boundary of the Colorado Plateau, where the elevation jumps around 4000 ft in elevation. The Highline continues to define itself as a diverse landscape where the species of the desert below and the pine forests above mingle.

The Mazatzal Mountains – the next major hurdle once I make it to Pine – loom in the distance as well, and ironwood line the more open stretches of path across the Highline, where the Dude Fire burned the forest in 1990, affording more open areas and direct sunlight, shifting the plants that grow in those locations.

Mazatzal Mountains from the Highline
Arizona Trail, Passage 27 (Highline)
Tonto National Forest
Ironwood along the AZT on the Highline
Arizona Trail, Passage 27 (Highline)
Tonto National Forest
Mazatzal Mountains from the Highline
Arizona Trail, Passage 27 (Highline)
Tonto National Forest
Mogollon Rim from the Highline
Arizona Trail, Passage 27 (Highline)
Tonto National Forest

The Mogollon Rim continues to loom above as the trail heads toward Milk Ranch Point, which juts out from the rest of the Rim. In addition to the Dude Fire impacts – opening up clearings in the flora and affording different plants opportunities than they would have gotten or get today in the remnant forest- the impact of minor fluctuations in sun angle, water availability, shade, elevation, and other factors affecting microclimates continue to be quite evident. Ironwood dominates the more exposed sections. In the warmest and driest microclimates, succulents like yucca, agave, and prickly pear cactus can be found. In the draws, which are cooler and reduce sun angle, trees appear. Gamble oaks, ponderosa pines, and blue spruce all make appearances depending on the sun angle, moisture availability and apparent temperature.

Ironwood
Arizona Trail, Passage 27 (Highline)
Tonto National Forest
Mazatzal Mountains from the Highline
Arizona Trail, Passage 27 (Highline)
Tonto National Forest
Gamble oaks & ponderosa on the Highline
Arizona Trail, Passage 27 (Highline)
Tonto National Forest
Highline segment of AZT passing pines and gamble oaks
Arizona Trail, Passage 27 (Highline)
Tonto National Forest
Fall foliage on AZT Highline segment
Arizona Trail, Passage 27 (Highline)
Tonto National Forest
Gamble oaks in fall foliage along the AZT Highline segment
Fall foliage on AZT Highline segment
Arizona Trail, Passage 27 (Highline)
Tonto National Forest
Mogollon Rim rises above the pines
Arizona Trail, Passage 27 (Highline)
Tonto National Forest
Fall foliage on AZT Highline segment
Arizona Trail, Passage 27 (Highline)
Tonto National Forest
Blue Spruce along the Highline
Arizona Trail, Passage 27 (Highline)
Tonto National Forest
Spruce needles, Arizona Trail Passage 27 (Highline), Tonto National Forest

Approaching the Geronimo Trailhead and West Webber Creek – probably the deepest draw encountered since the East Verde River – a new tree appears as well, the Arizona sycamore. I stop to have some food and refill my water here for the push around the Point to Pine. The reflection of the trees in the water of the Creek adds yet another dimension to the passage.

Arizona Trail, Passage 27 (Highline), Tonto National Forest
Oaks, pine and spruce, Arizona Trail Passage 27 (Highline), Tonto National Forest
Arizona sycamores on the Highline, Arizona Trail Passage 27 (Highline)
Arizona sycamores on the Highline, Arizona Trail Passage 27 (Highline)
Arizona sycamores on the Highline, Arizona Trail Passage 27 (Highline)
Arizona sycamores on the Highline, Arizona Trail Passage 27 (Highline)
West Webber Creek, Arizona Trail Passage 27 (Highline), Tonto National Forest

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Arizona Trail, Passage 25: Whiterock Mesa, Part 2

I got started around 10, heading down Passage 25 toward the East Verde River.
I hike through a gate and enter the Mazatzal Wilderness. Following cairns, the surface alternates between the basalt and more dirt – like walking through a wash. As the trail skirts the rim briefly, a magnificent view of the Mazatzal Mountains and Red Hills opens up to the hiker, then the trail experiences yet another spectacular sunset as it and the backpacker fall off the Mesa to Polk Spring near the East Verde River.

Fossil Springs Wilderness – FR 708

Take a virtual hike through the Fossil Creek Wilderness! Fossil Creek Wilderness is one of the most spectacular areas in Arizona – so much so that permits are required from April 1-October 1. From the Fossil Creek Bridge trailhead, FR 708 begins to climb the wall of Fossil Canyon. A short distance up, the road is gated. Just on the other side is the trailhead for the Waterfall Trail, one of the most popular spots in the wilderness.

Fossil Creek Wilderness – Waterfall Trail

Take a virtual hike through the Fossil Creek Wilderness! Fossil Creek Wilderness is one of the most spectacular areas in Arizona – so much so that permits are required from April 1-October 1. From the Fossil Creek Bridge trailhead, FR 708 begins to climb the wall of Fossil Canyon. A short distance up, the road is gated. Just on the other side is the trailhead for the Waterfall Trail, one of the most popular spots in the wilderness.

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Fossil Springs Wilderness – Fossil Springs Trail

Take a virtual hike through the Fossil Creek Wilderness! Fossil Creek Wilderness is one of the most spectacular areas in Arizona – so much so that permits are required from April 1-October 1. The Wilderness has 11,550 acres with 30 species of trees and shrubs and over 100 species of birds. Fossil Creek itself is one of two Wild & Scenic Rivers in Arizona as well, designated by Congress in 2009 after the Fossil Springs Dam was decommissioned by Arizona in 2005. Fossil Springs, the source of the creek, release 30 million gallons of water per day, incredibly prolific for its location in Arizona.

Arizona Trail, Day 46 – Passage 26 (Hardscrabble Mesa)

I finally get off around 11:30 & run into Matt and a female friend near East Tank. I’m glad for the company and we walk together for a while. The road condition is terrible – lots of loose basalt – and the going is slow. I finally reach the split to Strawberry and encounter them again, and their friend who picked them up flags me down and brings me a beer. Some more trail magic! I think my biggest challenges are becoming the pack weight and the solitude. I head for a short side trip to Fossil Creek.

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Arizona Trail, Day 45 – Passage 25 (Whiterock Mesa)

The trail first rolls through the pines and passes Pine Creek (dry) and Bradshaw Tank on its way to the top of Hardscrabble Mesa, which provides an excellent overlook of Oak Spring Canyon, the highlight of the passage, before dropping to the bottom. Like on the Highline, foliage still lingers in the warmer Canyon. I also spot some cool geology in what appears to be dikes in some of the rocks.

Arizona Trail, Day 43, Part III – Passage 27 (Highline)

The Arizona Trail following the Highline continues its route around Milk Ranch Point, passing some artifacts – perhaps ranching or mining related, as many seem to be in Arizona. Magnificent views to the south are common, with the Mazatzal Mountains an ever-increasing sight to the southeast.

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