Arizona Trail, Day 41 – Passage 27 (Highline)

In the land of Arizona
Through desert heat or snow
Winds a trail for folks to follow
From Utah to Old Mexico

It’s the Arizona Trail
A pathway through the great Southwest
A diverse track through wood and stone
Your spirit it will test

Oh, sure you’ll sweat and blister
You’ll feel the miles every day
You’ll shiver at the loneliness
Your feet and seat will pay

But you’ll see moonlight on the borderlands
You’ll see stars on the Mogollon
You’ll feel the warmth of winter sun
And be thrilled straight through to bone

The aches and pains will fade away
You’ll feel renewed and whole
You’ll never be the same again
With Arizona in your soul

Along the Arizona Trail
A reverence and peace you’ll know
Through deserts, canyons, and mountains
From Utah to Old Mexico

“The Arizona Trail,” Dale R Shewalter

It’s another chilly morning, camped directly on the Mogollon Rim. I’ll be dropping several thousand feet today to the base. I make a short deviation back to General Springs Cabin and spot a historical sign relating to a local conflict between early settlers and native Apaches. (There’s another marker for the same battle further north, by the canyon that passed through on Clear Creek yesterday.) After checking out the cabin and packing up, it’s time to head down off the rim. The descent passes a cool railroad tunnel on a short spur, and since the temperature warms as the elevation drops, fall is still lingering on the descent. A sizeable stream, the start of the East Verde River, also runs along the trail all the way down to Washington Park at the base.

The East Verde is the second of four rivers crossed by the Arizona Trail, and the only one to be crossed twice. I’ll encounter it again in a few days starting the ascent into the Mazatzal Mountains. (The other three rivers are the Colorado, in Grand Canyon; the Salt, east of Phoenix, splitting the Mazatzals and the Superstition Mountains; and the Gila, southeast of Phoenix in Pinal County.)

At this point, the trail completes its lengthy traverse of the Coconino National Forest (which the trail had passed through almost exclusively since north of the San Francisco Peaks) and enters the Tonto National Forest. More to come tomorrow about the beginning of the traverse across the magnificent Highline Trail from Washington Park to Pine, with its incredible views of the Mogollon Rim.

Relive Video for today
Morning light on the ponderosa forests of the Mogollon Rim
Arizona Trail Passage 28, Blue Ridge
Coconino National Forest
Morning light on the ponderosa forests of the Mogollon Rim
Arizona Trail Passage 28, Blue Ridge
Coconino National Forest
Battle of the Big Dry Wash historical marker on the trail where it hits the Mogollon Rim. The actual site is in the vicinity of where I crossed Clear Creek yesterday. the inscription reads “Seven miles north of this point a band of Apache Indians were defeated by United States troops on July 17, 1862. A group of tribesmen from the San Carlos Apache Reservation has attacked some ranches in the vicinity, killing several settlers. Cavalry and Indian scouts were immediately sent into the field in search of the hostile a. Five troops of cavalry and one trip of Indian scouts converged on the Apaches. Surrounding them at the Big Dry Wash, the resistance of the Indians was broken after four hours of stubborn fighting. The casualties numbered two soldiers and more than twenty Apaches.”
Arizona Trail Passage 28, Blue Ridge
Coconino National Forest
General Springs Cabin. A USFS sign reads, “Built in 1918 by Louis Fisher and used for years as a fire guard station, a small spring near here was named after General George Crook, who uses the spring while traveling the old Fort Apache-Camp Verde Military Road.”
Arizona Trail Passage 28, Blue Ridge
Coconino National Forest
Beginning the descent off the Mogollon Rim. 2 miles to the bottom, 481 to Mexico.
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Coconino National Forest/Tonto National Forest border
Mogollon Rim from Corbin Canyon
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
View south off the Mogollon Rim as the trail descends.
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
Corbin Canyon & the Mogollon Rim
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
View back up to the Mogollon after only a half mile or so of descending through Corbin Canyon.
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
The Mineral Belt Railroad tunnel, just off the AZT below the Mogollon Rim; interior view. According to Hike Arizona, the MBR was intended to cross the state from north to south, from Nogales through Globe and across the Mogollon to the Utah border near Lee’s Ferry (my starting point for this hike). The tunnel was supposed to be 3100 ft; construction began in August 1883. It was never completed due to funding issues. But several yards excavated at the entrance remain.
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Railroad Tunnel Spur
Tonto National Forest
The Mineral Belt Railroad tunnel, just off the AZT below the Mogollon Rim; exterior view. According to Hike Arizona, the MBR was intended to cross the state from north to south, from Nogales through Globe and across the Mogollon to the Utah border near Lee’s Ferry (my starting point for this hike). The tunnel was supposed to be 3100 ft; construction began in August 1883. It was never completed due to funding issues. But several yards excavated at the entrance remain.
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Railroad Tunnel Spur
Tonto National Forest
The Mogollon Rim from Corbin Canyon
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
The Mogollon Rim from Corbin Canyon
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
Fall on the canyons of the Mogollon Rim, among a diverse assortment of flora
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
Fall on the canyons of the Mogollon Rim, among a diverse assortment of flora
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
Fall on the canyons of the Mogollon Rim, among a diverse assortment of flora
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
Fall on the canyons of the Mogollon Rim, among a diverse assortment of flora
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
Fall on the canyons of the Mogollon Rim, among a diverse assortment of flora
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
Small waterfalls on Mogollon Rim stream among golden leaves
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
Fall on the canyons of the Mogollon Rim, among a diverse assortment of flora – and intense greenery
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
Fall on the canyons of the Mogollon Rim, among a diverse assortment of flora
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
Fall on the canyons of the Mogollon Rim, among a diverse assortment of flora
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
Fall on the canyons of the Mogollon Rim, among a diverse assortment of flora
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
Fall on the canyons of the Mogollon Rim, among a diverse assortment of flora
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
Fall on the canyons of the Mogollon Rim, among a diverse assortment of flora
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest
Fall on the canyons of the Mogollon Rim, among a diverse assortment of flora
Arizona Trail Passage 27, Highline
Tonto National Forest

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Arizona Trail, Passage 25: Whiterock Mesa, Part 2

I got started around 10, heading down Passage 25 toward the East Verde River.
I hike through a gate and enter the Mazatzal Wilderness. Following cairns, the surface alternates between the basalt and more dirt – like walking through a wash. As the trail skirts the rim briefly, a magnificent view of the Mazatzal Mountains and Red Hills opens up to the hiker, then the trail experiences yet another spectacular sunset as it and the backpacker fall off the Mesa to Polk Spring near the East Verde River.

Fossil Springs Wilderness – FR 708

Take a virtual hike through the Fossil Creek Wilderness! Fossil Creek Wilderness is one of the most spectacular areas in Arizona – so much so that permits are required from April 1-October 1. From the Fossil Creek Bridge trailhead, FR 708 begins to climb the wall of Fossil Canyon. A short distance up, the road is gated. Just on the other side is the trailhead for the Waterfall Trail, one of the most popular spots in the wilderness.

Fossil Creek Wilderness – Waterfall Trail

Take a virtual hike through the Fossil Creek Wilderness! Fossil Creek Wilderness is one of the most spectacular areas in Arizona – so much so that permits are required from April 1-October 1. From the Fossil Creek Bridge trailhead, FR 708 begins to climb the wall of Fossil Canyon. A short distance up, the road is gated. Just on the other side is the trailhead for the Waterfall Trail, one of the most popular spots in the wilderness.

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Fossil Springs Wilderness – Fossil Springs Trail

Take a virtual hike through the Fossil Creek Wilderness! Fossil Creek Wilderness is one of the most spectacular areas in Arizona – so much so that permits are required from April 1-October 1. The Wilderness has 11,550 acres with 30 species of trees and shrubs and over 100 species of birds. Fossil Creek itself is one of two Wild & Scenic Rivers in Arizona as well, designated by Congress in 2009 after the Fossil Springs Dam was decommissioned by Arizona in 2005. Fossil Springs, the source of the creek, release 30 million gallons of water per day, incredibly prolific for its location in Arizona.

Arizona Trail, Day 46 – Passage 26 (Hardscrabble Mesa)

I finally get off around 11:30 & run into Matt and a female friend near East Tank. I’m glad for the company and we walk together for a while. The road condition is terrible – lots of loose basalt – and the going is slow. I finally reach the split to Strawberry and encounter them again, and their friend who picked them up flags me down and brings me a beer. Some more trail magic! I think my biggest challenges are becoming the pack weight and the solitude. I head for a short side trip to Fossil Creek.

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Arizona Trail, Day 45 – Passage 25 (Whiterock Mesa)

The trail first rolls through the pines and passes Pine Creek (dry) and Bradshaw Tank on its way to the top of Hardscrabble Mesa, which provides an excellent overlook of Oak Spring Canyon, the highlight of the passage, before dropping to the bottom. Like on the Highline, foliage still lingers in the warmer Canyon. I also spot some cool geology in what appears to be dikes in some of the rocks.

Arizona Trail, Day 43, Part III – Passage 27 (Highline)

The Arizona Trail following the Highline continues its route around Milk Ranch Point, passing some artifacts – perhaps ranching or mining related, as many seem to be in Arizona. Magnificent views to the south are common, with the Mazatzal Mountains an ever-increasing sight to the southeast.

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