
Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Vermilion Cliffs National Monument
After several hours spent trying to fill water bags and talking with a friendly BLM ranger, as well as a farewell encounter with Philip and Raj, I begin backpacking up Buckskin Gulch. After dragging my pack over the boulder jam – a much more difficult undertaking than yesterday without the pack – I start upcanyon (see photos). It’s an incredible journey that photos will tell better than words, heading westbound through the canyon and gazing up at the narrow strips of sky, icing light and rare deeper light penetrations. No quicksand, which can form here at this time of year but has not this year with how dry it has been. There are places where you can reach out and touch both sides of the canyon at once. Yet the logs and debris lodged high up in the canyon continue to tell the story of the harsher side of the water that can flow through here, as opposed to the delicate beauty currently evidenced.

Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument
It eventually becomes clear that I won’t make it out to Wire Pass today as hoped, so I let my friend Steve know to cache the water and supplies he’s leaving for me at the start of the AZT on his way back from Page and settle in for the night. Looking for an early start to get onto the AZT itself and start heading toward Jacob Lake tomorrow.

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

To Thruhike or Section Hike, That is the Question
When many individuals are first looking at getting into thruhiking, they face one crucial decision after trail selection – to section hike, or thruhike. Each has different advantages and challenges, and may be better suited for one trail than another. Today, we’re going to discuss these. First, we need to define each. For our purposes, … Continue reading To Thruhike or Section Hike, That is the Question

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Cottonwood Creek (Passage 19, Superstition Wilderness)
Backpacking the Arizona Trail’s Superstition Wilderness Passage from Roosevelt Lake up Cottonwood Creek at the start of the Superstition Wilderness passage. More magnificent Arizona mountain views of the Superstition Mountains and the monarch of the Southwest, the saguaro cacti.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Inspiration Point to Roosevelt Cemetery (Passages 20 & 19, Four Peaks to Superstition Mountains)
Backpacking the Arizona Trail’s Saddle Mountain Passage from near Saddle Mountain to Sycamore Creek at the start of the Pine Mountain passage. More magnificent Arizona mountain views of the central Mazatzal peaks and ridgelines, and a gorgeous Arizona sunset.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Arizona Trail Backpacking Logistics – AZT Gateway Communities: Tonto Basin
Backpacking the Arizona Trail’s Saddle Mountain Passage from near Saddle Mountain to Sycamore Creek at the start of the Pine Mountain passage. More magnificent Arizona mountain views of the central Mazatzal peaks and ridgelines, and a gorgeous Arizona sunset.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Four Peaks South (Passage 20)
Backpacking the Arizona Trail’s Saddle Mountain Passage from near Saddle Mountain to Sycamore Creek at the start of the Pine Mountain passage. More magnificent Arizona mountain views of the central Mazatzal peaks and ridgelines, and a gorgeous Arizona sunset.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Four Peaks North (Passage 20)
Backpacking the Arizona Trail’s Four Peaks Passage to just south of Pigeon Spring. The terrain is incredibly precipitous – in places the trail seems to occupy the only level ground around. Fire impacts are present throughout as well, a legacy of the 1996 Lone Fire. Magnificent views of Roosevelt Lake, the southern Mazatzal foothills, and the Sierra Ancha across Tonto Basin.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Pine Mountain (Passage 21), FR 422 to Pigeon Spring Trailhead
Backpacking the Arizona Trail’s Saddle Mountain Passage from near Saddle Mountain to Sycamore Creek at the start of the Pine Mountain passage. More magnificent Arizona mountain views of the central Mazatzal peaks and ridgelines, and a gorgeous Arizona sunset.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Pine Mountain (Passage 21), Boulder Creek Trail
Backpacking the Arizona Trail’s Saddle Mountain Passage from near Saddle Mountain to Sycamore Creek at the start of the Pine Mountain passage. More magnificent Arizona mountain views of the central Mazatzal peaks and ridgelines, and a gorgeous Arizona sunset.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Saddle Mountain, Part II (Day 54, Passages 22 & 21)
Backpacking the Arizona Trail’s Saddle Mountain Passage from near Saddle Mountain to Sycamore Creek at the start of the Pine Mountain passage. More magnificent Arizona mountain views of the central Mazatzal peaks and ridgelines, and a gorgeous Arizona sunset.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Saddle Mountain, Part I (Day 53, Passage 23)
Backpacking the Arizona Trail’s Saddle Mountain Passage, views of the central Mazatzal peaks and ridgelines, wildlife encounters with fox and snakes, and another Arizona sunset as the trail reaches its halfway point.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Mazatzal Divide, Part V (Day 53, Passage 23)
Backpacking around Mount Peeley on the Arizona Trail, views of the central Mazatzal peaks and ridgelines.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.

Backpacking the Amazing Arizona Trail – Mazatzal Divide, Part IV (Day 52, Passage 23)
Day 53, the Mazatzal Divide section between Barnhardt Canyon and the highest point on this hiking passage, just south of Bear Spring.
The trail wraps precipitously around the west flank of Mazatzal Peak, with 1700 foot cliffs rising above the trail.
Logistics, trail journal, and magnificent mountain scenery.
Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness | |
Trail Surface | Rustic (the river is the trail) |
Length (Mi) | 45 (Lee’s Ferry to Wire Pass via Buckskin Gulch) 38 (Paria Canyon, Lee’s Ferry to White House) 20 (Wire Pass to White House via Buckskin Gulch) 22, approx. (Buckskin Gulch to White House) 1.8 (Wire Pass to Buckskin Gulch) |
Season | Fall-Spring. Brutally hot in summer. |
Potential Water Sources | Springs. Unless informed otherwise by a BLM ranger, there is likely no water in Buckskin Gulch and the Paria River should be considered undrinkable even when filtered. Know how to recognize desert springs. |
Trailheads | Paria Canyon North: White House Paria Canyon South: Lee’s Ferry Buckskin Gulch Middle Exit Buckskin Gulch West Wire Pass |
Trailhead Access | Vehicular access to all trailheads |
Wilderness | Yes |
Possible resupply points | None |
Difficulty | Strenuous |
Potential campsites (mileages S to N) | Best near springs. Some higher-water campsites in north, south of Buckskin Gulch-Paria Canyon confluence. |
Threats | Flash flooding – Extreme hazard here. Know the forecast daily (an inReach or other satellite communicator helps with this). Know how to recognize the signs of a flash flood and how to react. You cannot outrun a flash flood; you must climb above it. This is not possible in Buckskin Gulch – do not enter it if storms threaten. Heat – wear a cotton shirt so you can soak it. Synthetics aren’t great in the desert. Hyponatremia – “drunk on water.” To avoid, ensure adequate salt & electrolyte intake and ensure you eat as well as drink water. Symptoms are almost identical to dehydration, but drinking more makes it worse. Prevention is by far the best solution. Dehydration Because there is no trail, there are places where boulders must be climbed around or over and at least one spot where your pack must be hauled over a boulder jab. Flash floods change the trail, shifting obstacles around, removing some and adding others. Expect the unexpected. |
Permits Required? | Yes. 20 people max per night issued on BLM website. |
Miscellaneous | Leave No Trace is different in the desert. Know desert principles and carry wag bags. One will be provided with your permit. |
Cell service? | Nonexistent |